Jumentos

We have had a great couple of days. Finally made it south to the Jumentos, and we are anchored in a deep little bay with a pretty white beach within swimming distance. Had a fishing boat keeping us company until this morning, and a couple of guys came over to say hello (and hablar espanol as they came from the Dominican Republic). Later they returned with the most enormous crayfish and a large grouper for which they received a bottle of rum. Actually they asked for beer but we're running a bit short! So we have been making pigs of ourselves. Although sheltered in here it is blowing hard outside, and the best snorkelling is too exposed. Still, we've found a few nice spots and the water is lovely and clear.

CIRCULAR TOUR

Having waited for four days for squall-free weather with reasonable winds, we eventually set off at dawn on Friday heading southwards to a chain of small islands, the Jumentos. They are considered 'off the beaten track' in our cruise guide - solitude, beauty, lots of fish, and only the local fishermen for company. Sounded good after an overdose of Georgetown and the Cruiser's Regatta. When chatting to other cruisers about our plans we found out that the much shorter 'inner' banks route wasn't as shallow as the charts showed and would be fine for our 7ft draft except at low tide. That proved to be the case though we made sure we were on a rising tide as we crossed the shallowest part. We were following a channel across miles of very shallow sand flats which were the most gorgeous shade of pale turquoise, the colour reflecting on the white clouds and turning the edges of them pale green. The only thing apart from rippling sand visible through the clear water were scattered fan corals swaying in the direction of the tidal current.

Just before dusk we were anchored off Flamingo Cay with about 8 other boats - part of the mass exodus from Georgetown (there were 400 sailboats there during the regatta). Then .... we noticed an oily liquid sprayed all over the engine, and when we started it up again more spray. So after 12 hours of sailing Geoff was down in the engine room trying to diagnose the problem - a defunct fresh water pump, it was the coolant spraying out. No spare on board, so the only option was to sail (no motoring) back to Georgetown where we had internet access, phones, and plenty of people to ask for advice.

Next morning, Saturday, found us on our way again, but this time via the 'outside' route, 160 nautical miles compared to 65. The only safe option with no motor. At times we had 2km of water under us instead of 3m! All was well until night fell, then we had the wind on our nose and were beating into an increasingly choppy sea on a very dark cloudy night. Wind changes plus the push of the waves made us tack unintentionally several times; very hard work for Geoff who had to winch in the genoa twice each time to get us back on course. Not much sleep for either of us and we were very glad when morning came, and we reached a waypoint where we could change course and get on a fast beam reach. Things got better still when we caught a large (6.2kg) schoolmaster snapper, one of our favourite fish for eating.

And so, on Sunday afternoon, we gently and quietly anchored under sail in almost the same spot that we had been in three days before. By Monday afternoon a new pump had been located in the US and it should be at Georgetown airport on Thursday. Let's hope the installation is that straightforward too. Then, weather permitting, we'll set off by the banks route for the Jumentos.