Covering the sea miles

We are at last at anchor in a calm inlet, Island Head Creek. An overnighter last night has brought us to within 140 miles of the Whitsundays. This time quite pleasant conditions - G has nearly finished 'The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo', and I'm well into 'The Girl who Played with Fire'. It has been gray and overcast though, and we anchored here in torrential rain. The entrance was bit hairy with various invisible shoals, rocks that we had to pass close to, and landmarks to look out for that were shrouded in mist. In the end it was trouble free thank goodness. Were very lucky to have that one lovely blue sunny day at Lady Musgrove. Caught a 6lb tuna (not quite identified) en route, rather red flesh, but made some good fish cakes today. Fun hauling it in.

Position 22 22.019, 150 38.366. We are well into the Tropic of Capricorn.

hello from Lady Musgrave

On the move again, Mooloolabla, Queensland, to Lady Musgrove Island

After a summer in the UK, and a few weeks of maintenance in boat yard and marina we were ready to go and looking foward to pastures new.

After quite a wait for suitable weather we set off at 5am on Sat. 27th Nov. It was very rough outside the harbour, and the autohelm took umbridge to that or to something and decided not to work. We rigged up the wind vane which was OK for quite a while. But after I had lost my breakfast banana overboard and G felt pretty queasy as well, the wind vane came loose and couldn't be fixed in those conditions. So we turned round and went back and had a proper breakfast at about 9am.

Tightened up the wind vane, got the autohelm going just by leaving it on for a few hours so that it warmed up. Don't know why, but we have decided not to switch it off in future! Left again at 5am Sun. Still a horrible sea, but probably slightly better than the day before. Autohelm fine and we didn't need the windvane. Only problem was unfurling the genoa, furling was fine but unfurling had to be done by hand. Still no big deal and once out it stayed out. Pretty horrible conditions all day and night though the wind was good, just very lumpy seas. However when we got north of Fraser Island and 'turned the corner' things improved considerably and we had a good day's sail to Lady Musgrove Island. The southernmost bit of the Barrier Reef, and about 200 miles from Mooloolaba.

This tiny island is surrounded by a circular coral reef so has a large lagoon. A pass was made through the reef many years ago so that guano could be collected, so entrance to the lovely calm waters is quite easy. Evidently goats were also introduced to provide food for anyone shipwrecked here, and, as goats do, they completely stripped the island of vegetation. They have been got rid of now, and the island is forested again making it a breeding ground for seabirds. Green turtles also lay eggs on the beaches at this time of year, and not surprisingly the whole area is a national park. The nearest mainland is 60 miles away, so although there are day trips here they are expensive and you only get a few hours before returning - so we are not expecting much of an influx. At the moment there is one other boat here.

So out with the snorkels today, for the first time for ages. First a bit of maintenance on the genoa electrics (problem found) and the electric bilge pump which is probably blocked. They say that cruising is doing maintenance in exotic places, how true! Some more food prepared (how good plain rice tastes when you don't feel like eating but need to line the stomach), salt wiped off, and we will be ready for the next leg tomorrow.

Brisbane

It's a long and devious route to the Brisbane river from the south. A large area of shallow water, Morton Bay, with a couple of slender islands makes a barrier to the open sea. Being so shallow, the Bay is a very fruitful source of shrimps, crabs and Morton Bay 'bugs', a type of crayfish. There is a dredged shipping route through it, and various natural deeper channels which we took without a problem - wouldn't want to do it in the dark though.

Our first destination, after an overnight trip from the Clarence River, was near the little town of Scarborough which has a marina and boat yard with storage facilities. We are booked to haul out soon, and then will be winging our way back to the UK for the European summer. There's a lot of polishing and other work to be done before leaving the boat, so we decided to go up the river to Brisbane, in the hopes that there would be a mooring free.

It was an early, 5am, start to catch the tide flow, and consequently we were settled in the city by 10.30 with the whole day ahead of us. It is always interesting sailing into a big city. First the dock area with tankers and container ships from all over the world coming and going. Then an industrial part with oil terminals, cement works, and chemical plants. On the outskirts of the city were the abattoir and meat and fish wholesale markets. Then suddenly we were in a residential area with large houses and up-market flats on both sides. Several old wool warehouses have been converted into very attractive apartments. These gave way to taller blocks of flats and offices. A couple of bridges (plenty high enough but it never looks as though the mast has space to get underneath) and we were in the central city area of modern skyscrapers.

Beside the Botanic Gardens is an area of pile moorings - you tie to two poles, one fore and one aft. Luckily one vacant, and a helpful neighbour appeared in a dinghy to help us to tie up. So once again we are in the centre of a city in pleasant surroundings, and for a very reasonable rate, with good hot showers and a laundry. Plenty to watch from the cockpit. Fast cat ferries, normal ferries, tourist boats, and the Kookaburra Queen, a replica of an old paddle boat. They all cause some wash of course, so it is hardly a calm spot to be during the day. After dark there is a lovely view of floodlit cliffs on the far bank, the lights of a bridge, and all the lights of the skyscrapers.

For the last few days we have spent a long morning working on the boat, then have a walk in the afternoon. As well as the Botanic Gardens, there are walkways on both sides of the river, very popular with joggers and walkers.

We were surprised to have a visit from an Italian couple that we met in Galapagos. They now have a nearly 2-yr-old daughter and another due next month (and still live on their boat). Shows how quickly time passes.

No more blogging for a few months until we set off again.

Of bars and tartan poles

Most of the sheltered anchorages along this part of the coast of New South Wales are up rivers, so they have entrance bars which may or may not be shallow but are nearly always rough. Also tidal flow has to be taken into account - sometimes as much as 6 knots. As I have mentioned before, we find the voluntary Marine Rescue service very helpful. They nearly always have their radio bases looking over the entrance and nearbye coast, so have a birds eye view of conditions over a bar, as well as local knowledge of the best side to favour.

After a couple of day hops we felt ready for a longer leg to get us further north, so as the wind was favourable had a two day and a night trip to the Clarence River not very far from the Queensland border. A change of climate here, fields of sugar cane, bananas, and houses raised on stilts so that the air can circulate underneath to help keep them cool. At this time of year it isn't too hot, in fact when sailing we are still in fleeces and socks; but at midday it is much more comfortable in the shade.

We crossed the Clarence River bar, just as it was getting dark, with no problems. Yesterday walked out along the 'taming' wall which is built of huge blocks of stone cut from a nearbye quarry, no concrete shapes here. The river was at full flow out, clashing with the incoming tide to make standing waves and plenty of turbulence. Dolphins were playing in the crashing water. On the other side of the wall human 'dolphins' in black wet suits were surfing in the long rollers coming into the beach. The fast flowing carries fish so there were pelicans and terns diving, and of course a row of hopeful weekend fishermen along the wall. Proof, if it was required, that timing of entrance and exit of these places is important.

Today an early start to catch the up-river flow, about nine miles to the town of Maclean. Careful navigation required to stay in the narrow deeper channel of the quite wide river. Various range lights help, two distant triangles which need to be lined up. We are always thankful for GPS and accurate electronic charts too. Maclean, as its name implies, was originally settled by Scotsmen, and plays up to its name by having various tartans painted around the power poles all through the centre of town. All different, and labelled. The banners of bits of Robbie Burns poetry were maybe going a bit too far! It's a charming compact little town though, with many well preserved old buildings, and a pleasant river-side walk. Also a friendly little library with free internet access, which always adds a star to a town's rating.

Port Stephens

t is very nice to have time to wait for the wind, and a couple of days ago we had a great long day's sail, leaving at 3.30am and arriving just at dusk at about 5pm (the days are getting shorter). Up the coast past Newcastle there were at least 20 ships at anchor, all empty and waiting for their cargo of coal. Quite a range of condition from very rusty to very smart, mostly from Asia. Big business, no wonder Australia is thriving at the moment in great contrast to Europe (not good for the exchange rate for us).

Our destination was another big bay, Port Stephens, which covers an area as large as Sydney harbour, but is much quieter. The small town of Port Stephens is the sort of place that is perfect for people like us - free mooring with the charter boats in the marina, and a short walk to shops and laundromat. It has been pouring with rain on and off since we arrived, an opportunity to read the weekend newspapers and catch up with emails. The bay has a huge population of dolphins, and is on the migration route for humpback and right whales - they start appearing mid May heading north for Queensland so we hope for good sightings in the coming weeks.

Broken Bay

At last, for the first time for a couple of weeks we had wind - from the south. It came with a front passing through so we also had a day and night of rain, and a damp overcast trip up the coast to Broken Bay. Only about 15 miles up the coast, so we arrived in time for a late lunch of the small tuna we had caught en route. Broken Bay, as you can probably see on Google Earth, is a huge area of long narrow arms of water, much of which is in the Kuringai Chase national park, and looks from the water much as the original explorers must have found it. Steep rocky banks all around. In those days there was a considerable population of Aboriginees, and as in other places they either killed them or indirectly killed them with their imported diseases. These days the only traces of them are rock engravings, middens, and rock shelters. We spent a few days exploring the bay - very conveniently there are free national park moorings in many of the isolated little inlets. Just as well as the narrow fingers of water are surprisingly deep. I was keen to re-visit Bobbin Head, not far from the hospital I worked in in the 70's, and remembered as a beautiful spot. It still is, and although probably very busy in season, at this time of year it was quiet and empty and we had a lovely walk along a boardwalk through the mangroves, and along a path beside a tidal creek rather reminiscent of parts of Cornwall.

Manly

Manly is only a ferry ride away from Circular Quay in Sydney but offers swimming quality water and a seaside holiday atmosphere as well as having very desirable commuter homes with ocean or harbour views. It is surrounded by bits of national park, and we anchored off a small beach in the park area which is in a 'penguin conservation area' - during the breeding season the fairy penguins come ashore as dusk to their nests. Not the breeding season at the moment, but penguins can be seen in and on the water though it is hard to distinguish them from sea gulls unless close to.

The entrance to Sydney Harbour is through two high 'heads'; North Head being a high vertical cliff, very recognisable from a long way out to sea. We walked to the cliffs which give a wonderful view over the city and its waters as well as the rocks and surf below. All very calm while we were there - an international surfing championship further up the coast must have been more of a paddling competition. The North Head area, being quite isolated, was a quarantine area for many years - ships often arrived with cases of smallpox and cholera on board, and even bubonic plague. There are three old cemeteries showing that hundreds of people never left the area.

Sydney

Sydney, what a great city. We are anchored in Blackwattle Bay, near the fish market for those who know the place. The anchoring area is quite cramped, so we have close encounters with a German boat, a British boat, and a charter yacht depending how the wind is blowing. Luckily there is no tidal flow, and very light wind so no problems so far.

We sailed under the Harbour Bridge, did our best to avoid the ferries leaving Circular Quay at great rate, and then under the Glebe suspension bridge - which, having two supporting pylons, in true Aussie fashion, has been nicknamed Madonna's Bra (whereas the Harbour Bridge is known as the Old Coathanger). At night time we have a fine view of the lights of the city, the best free accommodation around!

The fish market not only has fish and seafood for sale, but is also full of sushi bars and fish restaurants. Whereas the fishing fleet is almost entirely owned and captained by two families with Italian names, the produce is sold almost exclusively by Asians. And the majority of purchasers are Asian too. That is one of the big differences in the population of the city since the seventies.

On day one we walked to the Opera House, and had a tour around it with a guide who we are sure is a 'resting' actress. Very interesting and with a voice that was music to listen to. The building looks just as fantastic close to as from a distance (more Aussie-speak, the 'shells' look like praying nuns or coupling turtles). We hadn't realised that after months of trying to work out how to build the shells, the architect Utzen used sections of a hemisphere which were all curved the same amount, and could be made easily in similar sections. Utzen fell out with the change of government during the building process, resigned, and never returned to see the finished product. We were taken into the concert hall where a rehearsal was in progress so for about 15 mins were able to listen to some wonderful cello music.

Yesterday's destination was the bridge, enormous when close up, and very noisy with the constant traffic. It is possible to do a 'bridge climb' up the maintenance walkways to the very top of the arch, and we could see a group up there in helmets and harnesses. We were quite happy to be at road height, quite high enough.

We have been lucky with warm sunny weather, and it is a city to enjoy outside. Parks, pedestrian shopping areas, and pavement cafes everywhere. Also plenty of water fountains - London please take note.

And to keep us busy on the boat, we have a non-functioning wind speed indicator, so G has been up the mast a couple of times. Also we are still investigating solar panels - G managed to drop a screwdriver onto one from a height. Not possible to get one to match its twin on the deck, so we want to buy two smaller ones, and use the remaining old one in a different position. Australia is a pricey place at the moment though, the exchange rate gets worse by the week. They have plenty of minerals to export to China, and also produce nearly all their own food so have jumped out of recession very quickly.
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Easter in Ulladulla

Easter was spent in Ulladulla. Another fishing port, though we had our own bit of 'visitor's dock'. Not designed for a sailing boat as it was very difficult to fender ourselves off from vertical black rubber buffers which made a horrible mess of hull and fenders until we found a plank of wood to separate one from the other. Also at low tide it was a long way up to the jetty, and with the wind blowing us off, also a giant step over the gap - this life keeps one agile!

Great festivities over the weekend. The Blessing of the (fishing) Fleet on Sunday so all the fishing boats had been cleaned up and were decorated with bunting. The priest later did the rounds of the harbour so we also got a sprinkling of holy water! Then there was a parade with floats and 4 kilted pipe bands amongst other music-makers. It is only a small town, and most of the population must have been involved. Lots of food stalls and side shows and luckily perfect weather after the torrential rain of the day before. We were in the right place for an excellent firework display in the evening - let off from the breakwater only 100yds away. Had the wind been blowing in our direction we might have been a bit worried.

On Easter Monday we had a reunion with Sue Lloyd and her husband. Sue was our bridesmaid all those years ago; I first met her in South Africa. They now live in Canberra. It was perfect picnic weather, and local prawns and salad plus a glass or two of white helped to make it a special occasion.

Since then we have been making our way up the coast, and are now nearing Sydney suburbia. Two nights were spent in Jervis Bay, (35 08.080 and 150 44.886) the official port for Canberra (capital cities have to have one!) though mainly used as a naval base. National parks surround much of it, and we had some good walks along the coastal path. Saw several kangaroos, a kookaburra, and later a fairy penguin fishing near the boat, the former having been particularly lacking on our walks in Oz so far.

Today we are in Port Hacking (34 04.803 and 151 09.905); one side of which is part of the Royal National Park (the second park in existence after Yellowstone), and the other a very desirable residential area of greater Sydney. We've picked up a mooring on the park side, very close to a beach (only a few inches of water under the hull at low tide). In NSW is is forbidden to anchor on seagrass which is home to many creatures and plants. So anchoring is only allowed in water deeper than 10m. in seagrass areas. Decided to take the dinghy to Cronulla, a town on the other side of the bay. A 2-mile trip but easy in calm water and no wind. A bit more splashy on the return trip. A walk in the national park had the interest of some Aboriginal rock engravings, but also the shock of a large black snake on the path that I nearly trod on - other people had warned us that they had seen snakes there too, and being Australia it was probably a poisonous one.

An interesting evening was spent with a S. African couple from Durban, and also the author and his wife of the definitive cruising guide to New South Wales. He and his wife have been producing the guide for the last ten years, so know every nook and cranny of this coast. They have also sailed the world so had many tales to tell. 40 years afloat! They still use paper rather than electronic charts, and although have GPS, they miss the satisfaction of using a sextant for navigation. They say it kept them busy on long passages!

Eden and onwards

Eden is a fishing port, though as in many other places the fishermen now do harbour trips, whalewatching, and charter fishing. A few fishing boats for sale, but others definitely active. We enjoyed watching the unloading of a huge mixture of fish - not many of any great size. Fresh fish and mussels available to buy, and good fish and chips which we sampled.

Once the town had a whaling industry - started by an English stockbroker whose investors pulled out when they found out what they were investing in and left him stranded. However he got it going and also several other businesses in the area. One whale is a local legend, it rounded up stray baleen whales and herded them into the harbour. Then when they were harpooned it even covered the poor creatures' blow hole. As a reward it was given the tongue and lips of the carcass. What a gruesome tale. The skeleton of 'Old Tom' is in the local museum.

When we arrived we tied up to the fishing dock, but were worried that the 'Kingfisher' whose spot we had taken would return. Fortunately another yacht left in the evening; he had been rafted up to another fishing boat that was no longer used. We moved, and at midnight 'Kingfisher' came in to dock. It would have been quite a performance moving in the dark and finding somewhere else to moor.

Being a small town, we got chatting to several people strolling down the dock, and were even offered a lift to the petrol station to fill up diesel cans. (Also a bed for the night at his house if we were desperate for a night on dry land!)

A bit of maintenance turned into a general turn out. We thought that one of the fans for the engine compartment had stopped working. The spare was down at the bottom of a stern storage area that we seldom have to open. To our surprise it was wet - never had been before. Water dribbling from the bolts of the windvane steering. Of course the (salty) water had then dribbled through to the under-bunk lockers. Luckily lined with plastic as they were full of bedding' but at the bottom was the copper sheeting and netting that helps the radio signal - now a wonderful turquoise and deep red. In the end we found that the fan we thought was kaput was just running quietly, the other one was very noisy and had the problem!

Today we had the best sail for ages. In spite of a gale warning we had perfect 15 - 20 knots of wind behind us all day. The gale never happened, at least not where we were. We're now 40 miles further north in an attractive and tiny harbour called Bermagui. Also a fishing port, but now quite a tourist spot as it has pretty beaches and rocky headlands. Once again we are rafted up to a fishing boat that is in port until after Easter. This one is a bit fishy, and this evening its very high pitched bilge alarm went off. Eventually we found someone on another boat that phoned the owner to come and turn on the pumps. Blissful quiet, it was worse than a hundred mosquitoes.

Fishing hasn't been too successful recently - particularly annoying as we have had to buy a fishing license in New South Wales. Today lost a mahi mahi and a good size tuna, but did in the end land a small 'little tunny' which tasted pretty good. G enjoys hanging a line over the side in the evenings just to see what comes, not to eat, but quite a selection of different species.

As we get further north it is getting warmer and greener. Much more rain than in eastern Tasmania. Washed all the thick fleeces the other day only to have to get them out again today as the south wind felt as though it was coming from the South Pole while we were at sea. On land though it was warm enough for short sleeves.

A Happy Easter to all, don't eat too many Easter eggs.

Progress report

It was a bit optimistic to rely on the weather forecast and anticipate a 6 knot average crossing! We have 54 miles to go and it is 8.30am Thur. The first night out had the worst night since Jamaica; huge confused seas and 35 gusting 40 with current against. The Bass Strait is renowned as a nasty bit of sea and it lived up to it. Both local radio forecasts and our downloaded computer-generated ones were way out. On Tues we were listening to a local forecast saying that we had SW winds, and we had N. Anyway boat and us are fine and we are chugging along with (forecast)northerly but light winds at the moment.

Position 37 56.303 and 148 51.671

hello from wineglass bay

We are anchored off one of the most photographed spots in Tasmania, Wineglass Bay. Came in after dark last night; thank goodness for radar as well as GPS, and were surprised to find 5 other boats in the anchorage. They must be waiting to get across the Bass Strait as we are I should imagine, as there is a French boat and an American cat as well as a boat from Sydney. Hope to talk to them later as we were planning to leave for Eden tomorrow, but were told this morning that any west in the wind causes very bad seas in the Strait. As we don't often get a few days in succession without any northerly in the winds we thought we were on to a good thing.

Anyway, even though it is raining at the moment this is a beautiful spot, and I'm sure if you Google in the name you will get a picture of it. It is in the Freycinet National Park, so no roads or buildings.around. It's on one of the long distance trails and this morning, in the rain, we have seen groups of laden and well covered walkers trudging along the beach from the 'wilderness' camp site nearbye. We are hoping the sky will clear later so that we can climb to a look-out which is supposed to have wonderful views. (The anchorage is at 42 10.389 and 148 18.458).

the convict trail

We have said our farewells to Hobart and are making our slow way back up the coast. Actually at the moment we are still south of Hobart as we have to get right round the Tasman Peninsula first. There is a canal through the neck at the north end of the peninsular, but it is very shallow and has shifting sand bars and several people have advised us not to attempt it even though in theory it could be done at high tide.

Had a very pleasant evening at a fish restaurant in the old dock area with B & B before leaving, and took a very excited dog for a walk around - so many seagulls and good food smells.

Got as far as Port Arthur last night (43 09.060 and 147 51.269). It is one of the best known places in Tasmania as it is the site of the Van Diemen's Land penitentiary where thousands of Brits (25% Irish) spent years doing hard labour. Convict labour built beautiful solid stone buildings, all the stone being hand hewn locally. Bush fires have destroyed all the floors and roofs, but the walls remain and the setting is superb. A grassy hillside looking over the bay.

The weather was perfect this morning, sunny and still; and by the time it clouded over and a breeze came up we had seen enough, so set sail to go about 20 miles further round the coast. It is very impressive bit of coast line, huge towering cliffs and pinnacles of vertical strata. Lots of albatrosses gliding on the thermals - not good for sailing of course as we just get downdraughts which can be extremely gusty or the wind is completely cut off.

Tonight we are in a sheltered little bay in the Tasman National Park, so hope to walk part of the coastal trail tomorrow. Position 43 07.617 and 147 59.290.

more tales of tasmania

We are in Dover (43 19.169 and 147 01.337) which doesn't have white cliffs but is a sleepy attractive little town (called Dozy Dover) on the sheltered Port Esperance. If you look up our position you will see that we are tied to the end of the fishing jetty, rafted up to a lobster fishing boat. (We were a little concerned to see a small tail disappearing under some rope on our boat, pretty sure it was a lizard but......) Another boat has been unloading a huge catch of abalone this morning, 2 days work involving diving to 100 ft. They mostly get exported to Japan and Asia, quite a valuable haul. Gale force winds are forecast for today so it is unlikely any fishing boats will be leaving and hopefully we can stay put. (A gust of 42 knots as I write)

We sailed here on Friday, and Bdrove down and joined us on Sat. morning. B couldn't come as he had been offered the stone from a couple of chimneys of a cottage that had burned down; but it had to be moved this weekend before the bulldozers moved in. The three of us sailed south to Recherche Bay, at the edge of the huge Southwest National Park. Cockle Creek where we anchored (43 34.775 and 146 53.774) is the end of the South Coast walking track. A tough a 6 - 7 day hike carrying all your own gear up steep slopes and through deep mud and water. There is a bus from Hobart to Cockle Creek, and a small plane takes you back to Hobart from the other end.

Luckily the first part of the trail is a pleasant 2 hour walk to a spectacular beach facing the southern ocean. The big long waves roll in straight from Antarctica. We were lucky to have a sunny day with clear blue skies and it all looked magnificent. The water is pretty cool even at the end of the summer, so a paddle was enough for us, though B felt she had to make the most of the sunny day and dipped in. Another 2 hrs back to the boat, and we were ready to sit on board and admire the view with a G and T.

Fishing was interesting if not very productive for eating though we did catch three large squid on the way back yesterday. Tried one cut into rings and fried and it was pretty good. Barbara took the other two back so that she could look up some recipes and instructions on the internet. We have never caught squid while trawling before.

From here we will make our wind-dependent way back to Hobart, and probably next week will begin to head north again.

the latest from hobart

G is busy watering the batteries, and as it is only 11 C on the thermometer (forecast 29 so it should warm up as the sun rises), I'm happy to be tucked up down below.

As local people say, the weather here only lasts for 10 minutes! In calm and warmth we watched a front approaching yesterday. Weird pinkish coloured cloud due to bush fires inland. Suddenly the wind changed by 180 degrees, and the temp dropped by about 10. From 5 knots it went up to 30. As we are safely attached to a mooring buoy we only watched, glad we weren't out at sea. A few hours later all was calm again.

Last weekend we did some inland stuff with B and B. Spent Friday night with them in preparation for an early start on Sat, and drove to Mount Field National Park, about an hour NW of Hobart. Luckily quite a bit of a climb before we parked the car as we were able to get some fantastic views as we climbed higher. The big difference between here and NZ is that it is very dry, something that we hadn't realised before we came. So the slopes have gum, wattle, and various thick-leaved low growing bushes, all very crunchy underfoot. There are also shady valleys with streams where tree ferns and mosses grow, and we had lunch beside a couple of small tarns with boggy peaty growth around similar to the Lake District. Saw one little pademelon,(a small type of wallaby, and tracks and droppings of wombat. Plenty of dead possums along the road but no live ones. B is a great one for brewing up, and had a trangia and real coffee and tea in his rucksack so we were able to have two tea stops en route.

Otherwise our exploring has been Hobart based since we got back from our long weekend sailing with them. Plus a bit of work on the boat. The winch handle socket that we use for unfurling the mizzen sail has collapsed from metal fatigue so it has had to be dismantled. How to replace it is the next knotty problem. I think I mentioned the little sea horse that rode up on the anchor chain, well we have also had tiny crabs flushing through the toilet - all alive alive o oh.

hello from Hobart

We are on a mooring off the Royal Hobart Yacht Club (complete with picture of the Queen in the entrance hall). Can use the facilities, and had a good cheap meal there last night, their schnitzel evening. There is a big social membership and everyone was rather smartly dressed - we had come straight from a walk into the centre of the city, with rucksack and all. No one seemed to mind though, and they were very welcoming. Also here is a Swedish boat that we know from New Zealand, and an American family we last saw in the Tuomotos. Otherwise no other foreign boats as far as we have seen.

We anchored a couple of nights in a bay with nice beach and park only a mile from B and B's house, but unfortunately there is nowhere safe to leave the dinghy there. Anyway we are closer to the centre of the city here. When we took the anchor up to leave there was a little seahorse clinging to the chain. Have never seen one before, it was such a surprise!

Hobart seems a very pleasant place, not too big, and lots of renovated buildings dating from the early 1800's, particularly around the dock area. As in many places it has all been done up with lots of cafes, restaurants and arty shops. We have had a couple of days of calm warm weather, long may it last.

It has been fun having B and B on board. B hasn't sailed much but was keen to learn - good preparation for their week with T in the summer. B had a lot of success fishing with a line over the side in the evenings, and was very chuffed. Caught enough for lunch a couple of days running. Also collected shellfish a bit like cockles called pipi and had those as a starter one evening. We ate pretty well because we had home grown veg and potatoes from B and lots of plums off B's sister's tree.

Will stay with them on Fri night and go for a walk with them on Sat for quite a long day. Nice to do some 'land' stuff.

hello from Bruny Island

I'm afraid it's ages since I last wrote. We seem to have spent a lot of time battling high winds or motoring with no wind at all, today in short sleeves an shorts, and other days with fleeces and windproof jackets.

We eventually got to Hobart, and anchored in a bay only a mile from Bob and Barbara's house. That evening they drove their pick up to the little beach, and loaded our dinghy on to it so that we could go to their house for dinner and not worry about it! We are a bit sensitive these days. Then yesterday we loaded up and set off with them for a 4-day trip to Bruny Island. Tuesday is Australia Day, so lots of people make it a long weekend. Quite a few boats in the anchorages, (ie 6 with us here!) . This part of the island is a national park and very pretty. Position 43 24 661 S and 147 06.585 E. B and B went for a long walk today, while we kept an eye on the boat and did a longish beach walk and part of their path too.

On our return we will probably get into a marina as B and B have kindly said we can borrow their car to do some land stuff. B starts school next week but walks to work, and B uses the pick up. They have a lovely little stone house dating from about 1830, and B has done a huge amount of work on it, adding roof windows so that they can use the roof space as a bedroom - with views over the distant mountains, and they have replastered the walls and put in a new kitchen.

Well, the gang are busy eating all the snacks and drinking up the wine, so I'll go and join them but will write more soon.

Hello from Triabunna

Tasmania is even chillier than Nova Scotia, though the water is warmer. It is mainly the wind as in a sheltered spot when the sun comes out it is nice and warm. But we have certainly had plenty of wind recently. 35 gusting nearly 50 the other day and we seem to have had quite a few days when we didn't feel happy leaving the boat because of the strong winds. The scenery too is very reminiscent of Canada.

Stayed in Lady Baron until last Wed, mostly on board as the holding wasn't very good and we dragged twice in high winds. Then had a very slow trip to Tasmania proper. Little wind, wrong direction, a fair bit of tacking and motoring until finally the wind shifted round behind, came up to 25 knots, and we had to reef, surfing down the waves at 11 knots at times. Found a good little anchorage on the Freycinet Penninsular (42 15.444 S and 148 16.705 E) which is all national park, and actually managed to have a good walk along a deserted beach.

On Saturday morning we did the fairly short trip to Triabunna (42 31 286 snf 147 55 040) where we picked up B and B. Lots of dolphins playing around the boat, and dozens of very large brown and white jellyfish which were not so nice to look at. On Sunday sailed out to Maria Island, what should have been a 2 hr trip. Again strong winds, mostly head winds, so it was lunch time by the time we got there. Still they enjoyed the novelty of the sail so we weren't in a hurry. A lovely long beach walk in the afternoon, a much needed bit of exercise as we seem to have spent a lot of time on board recently. Great fun was had by all and sundry in the late afternoon as a fishing line dropped overboard produced a fish in no time (in fact they were multi-hooked lines, so caught a couple at once sometimes) including several very ugly looking gurnard which fanned out large spiky fins and had huge mouths in large heads. B phoned a friend to find out about edibility and they evidently are, but we didn't fancy them! Plenty of fish for dinner anyway.

In fact we ate very well because B has just bought a pressure cooker and had been experimenting with various casseroles which she brought along. Also lots of fruit and veg from her allotment and Bob's sister's garden. Delicious greengages which are evidently dropping off the trees so we hope to do some jam making when we finally arrive in Hobart. At new year they left us a large bag of macadamia nuts off their tree. They have extremely hard shells, so we had to go to a rocky beach armed with hammers to crack them. The trick is to wedge them in a rock because the shell is as spherical as a large marble and just shoots all over the place, the hammer then hitting fingers instead.

Are quite looking forward to Hobart and a safe harbour and a bit of time in one place where we don't have to worry about the anchor all the time. However for the next 4 days there are storm warnings and southerly winds, so we have to be patient. We were up and off at 5am this morning back to Triabunna to drop B and B off as B had to get back to work, but they are planning to come up again by bus to sail the last bit to Hobart with us.

Visiting Lady Baron

From our anchorage we could be in the wilds of Scotland, or the Bay of Islands in NZ. Fairly bare, reddish brown hills, little rocky islands and inlets. Looking at the map we are the furthest south we have ever been with the boat which accounts for the fact that we had (I had) thermals and socks on for the night watches. Now though it's about 20 degrees with a clear blue sky and 25 knots of wind. A beautiful spot.

Lady Baron is a little fishing town in the south of Flinders Island, off the north of Tasmania. We left Eden on Thurs pm and had a good following wind most of the way until it died on us last night. We thought we would arrive at about 2am (Sat) and have to negotiate the well marked but tricky channel in the dark. However it was 11am when we put the anchor down, having battled an outgoing tide and 30 knot headwinds. Also had trouble with the autohelm so brush replacement and a general motor overhaul are on the cards for tomorrow. Similarly the toilet which obviously needs a new valve somewhere as what should be pumped out is pumped round. Nuf said!

There are some lovely deserted beaches to explore in our smart new dinghy - bigger and deeper than the last one, though instead of a bow wave splashing over we managed to get pooped by a breaking wave as we landed on a beach in Eden. It has an aluminium base, so is nice and light.

2 albacore tuna in the frig, no lures lost. Position 40 12.837 S and 148 15.515 E

Eden

Eden has an enormous wood chip business that works 24hrs per day. Otherwise a very scenic little place. We arrived after dark last night, and were very confused to find a huge loading jetty seemingly cutting off the bay where we wanted to anchor. We had spoken to the coastal rescue patrol earlier who said that there were a few other boats there and that it would be a good sheltered spot. Eventually decided to be brave and edge past the jetty though it didn't look as though it led anywhere. And suddenly there was the bay with 3 other boats and plenty of space. What a relief. Have now updated our chart and cruising guide.

We had a pretty good trip down from Sydney with the wind and varying current behind all the way except for the last 15 miles when it swung south as expected. It sounds as though it will be back to north east the day after tomorrow, so if it looks settled we will attempt the infamous Bass Strait to the Furneaux Group of islands just of the NE corner of Tasmania.

There is a good volunteer system of marine rescue services along the Australian coast. We can log in at our departure point, and our details are passed on to the next station down the coast. By 'logging on' every 50 miles or so, a record is kept of progress, and presumably a search would be mounted if you didn't arrive Also the volunteers have local knowledge, and are happy to give details of anchorages and facilities as well as weather reports.

We hope to go back to Sydney later in the year, so didn't explore much this time. B and B took us to Bondi beach where we had a swim - quite chilly water compared to the warm waters north of Brisbane. Also no surf as it was a calm sunny day. B and B had bought tickets for Mama Mia, the stage show, which was great. All that 70's music is so nostalgic, and it was a lovely razzle dazzle. The other (for me) very nostalgic moment was having a pie and mushy peas at the famous Harry's pie stall in Woolloomooloo. I last had a pie there in 1971!

all at sea again

Left Sydney midday Mon to catch a couple of days of good wind. Hope to get as far as Eden which will be our jumping off point for Tasmania. Have had one night out, and 90 miles to , so if all goes according to plan will arrive at dawn or before tomorrow morning (Wed).Will write more about Sydney later.

Position at 9am Tues 35 39.959 S and 150 37.924 E, nearing Bateman's Bay

No fish, no rain, we are rolling along with the wind behind. Plenty of shipping so the AIS is doing its work for us.