It's a long and devious route to the Brisbane river from the south. A large area of shallow water, Morton Bay, with a couple of slender islands makes a barrier to the open sea. Being so shallow, the Bay is a very fruitful source of shrimps, crabs and Morton Bay 'bugs', a type of crayfish. There is a dredged shipping route through it, and various natural deeper channels which we took without a problem - wouldn't want to do it in the dark though.
Our first destination, after an overnight trip from the Clarence River, was near the little town of Scarborough which has a marina and boat yard with storage facilities. We are booked to haul out soon, and then will be winging our way back to the UK for the European summer. There's a lot of polishing and other work to be done before leaving the boat, so we decided to go up the river to Brisbane, in the hopes that there would be a mooring free.
It was an early, 5am, start to catch the tide flow, and consequently we were settled in the city by 10.30 with the whole day ahead of us. It is always interesting sailing into a big city. First the dock area with tankers and container ships from all over the world coming and going. Then an industrial part with oil terminals, cement works, and chemical plants. On the outskirts of the city were the abattoir and meat and fish wholesale markets. Then suddenly we were in a residential area with large houses and up-market flats on both sides. Several old wool warehouses have been converted into very attractive apartments. These gave way to taller blocks of flats and offices. A couple of bridges (plenty high enough but it never looks as though the mast has space to get underneath) and we were in the central city area of modern skyscrapers.
Beside the Botanic Gardens is an area of pile moorings - you tie to two poles, one fore and one aft. Luckily one vacant, and a helpful neighbour appeared in a dinghy to help us to tie up. So once again we are in the centre of a city in pleasant surroundings, and for a very reasonable rate, with good hot showers and a laundry. Plenty to watch from the cockpit. Fast cat ferries, normal ferries, tourist boats, and the Kookaburra Queen, a replica of an old paddle boat. They all cause some wash of course, so it is hardly a calm spot to be during the day. After dark there is a lovely view of floodlit cliffs on the far bank, the lights of a bridge, and all the lights of the skyscrapers.
For the last few days we have spent a long morning working on the boat, then have a walk in the afternoon. As well as the Botanic Gardens, there are walkways on both sides of the river, very popular with joggers and walkers.
We were surprised to have a visit from an Italian couple that we met in Galapagos. They now have a nearly 2-yr-old daughter and another due next month (and still live on their boat). Shows how quickly time passes.
No more blogging for a few months until we set off again.
May 18, 2010
May 10, 2010
Of bars and tartan poles
Most of the sheltered anchorages along this part of the coast of New South Wales are up rivers, so they have entrance bars which may or may not be shallow but are nearly always rough. Also tidal flow has to be taken into account - sometimes as much as 6 knots. As I have mentioned before, we find the voluntary Marine Rescue service very helpful. They nearly always have their radio bases looking over the entrance and nearbye coast, so have a birds eye view of conditions over a bar, as well as local knowledge of the best side to favour.
After a couple of day hops we felt ready for a longer leg to get us further north, so as the wind was favourable had a two day and a night trip to the Clarence River not very far from the Queensland border. A change of climate here, fields of sugar cane, bananas, and houses raised on stilts so that the air can circulate underneath to help keep them cool. At this time of year it isn't too hot, in fact when sailing we are still in fleeces and socks; but at midday it is much more comfortable in the shade.
We crossed the Clarence River bar, just as it was getting dark, with no problems. Yesterday walked out along the 'taming' wall which is built of huge blocks of stone cut from a nearbye quarry, no concrete shapes here. The river was at full flow out, clashing with the incoming tide to make standing waves and plenty of turbulence. Dolphins were playing in the crashing water. On the other side of the wall human 'dolphins' in black wet suits were surfing in the long rollers coming into the beach. The fast flowing carries fish so there were pelicans and terns diving, and of course a row of hopeful weekend fishermen along the wall. Proof, if it was required, that timing of entrance and exit of these places is important.
Today an early start to catch the up-river flow, about nine miles to the town of Maclean. Careful navigation required to stay in the narrow deeper channel of the quite wide river. Various range lights help, two distant triangles which need to be lined up. We are always thankful for GPS and accurate electronic charts too. Maclean, as its name implies, was originally settled by Scotsmen, and plays up to its name by having various tartans painted around the power poles all through the centre of town. All different, and labelled. The banners of bits of Robbie Burns poetry were maybe going a bit too far! It's a charming compact little town though, with many well preserved old buildings, and a pleasant river-side walk. Also a friendly little library with free internet access, which always adds a star to a town's rating.
After a couple of day hops we felt ready for a longer leg to get us further north, so as the wind was favourable had a two day and a night trip to the Clarence River not very far from the Queensland border. A change of climate here, fields of sugar cane, bananas, and houses raised on stilts so that the air can circulate underneath to help keep them cool. At this time of year it isn't too hot, in fact when sailing we are still in fleeces and socks; but at midday it is much more comfortable in the shade.
We crossed the Clarence River bar, just as it was getting dark, with no problems. Yesterday walked out along the 'taming' wall which is built of huge blocks of stone cut from a nearbye quarry, no concrete shapes here. The river was at full flow out, clashing with the incoming tide to make standing waves and plenty of turbulence. Dolphins were playing in the crashing water. On the other side of the wall human 'dolphins' in black wet suits were surfing in the long rollers coming into the beach. The fast flowing carries fish so there were pelicans and terns diving, and of course a row of hopeful weekend fishermen along the wall. Proof, if it was required, that timing of entrance and exit of these places is important.
Today an early start to catch the up-river flow, about nine miles to the town of Maclean. Careful navigation required to stay in the narrow deeper channel of the quite wide river. Various range lights help, two distant triangles which need to be lined up. We are always thankful for GPS and accurate electronic charts too. Maclean, as its name implies, was originally settled by Scotsmen, and plays up to its name by having various tartans painted around the power poles all through the centre of town. All different, and labelled. The banners of bits of Robbie Burns poetry were maybe going a bit too far! It's a charming compact little town though, with many well preserved old buildings, and a pleasant river-side walk. Also a friendly little library with free internet access, which always adds a star to a town's rating.
May 1, 2010
Port Stephens
t is very nice to have time to wait for the wind, and a couple of days ago we had a great long day's sail, leaving at 3.30am and arriving just at dusk at about 5pm (the days are getting shorter). Up the coast past Newcastle there were at least 20 ships at anchor, all empty and waiting for their cargo of coal. Quite a range of condition from very rusty to very smart, mostly from Asia. Big business, no wonder Australia is thriving at the moment in great contrast to Europe (not good for the exchange rate for us).
Our destination was another big bay, Port Stephens, which covers an area as large as Sydney harbour, but is much quieter. The small town of Port Stephens is the sort of place that is perfect for people like us - free mooring with the charter boats in the marina, and a short walk to shops and laundromat. It has been pouring with rain on and off since we arrived, an opportunity to read the weekend newspapers and catch up with emails. The bay has a huge population of dolphins, and is on the migration route for humpback and right whales - they start appearing mid May heading north for Queensland so we hope for good sightings in the coming weeks.
Our destination was another big bay, Port Stephens, which covers an area as large as Sydney harbour, but is much quieter. The small town of Port Stephens is the sort of place that is perfect for people like us - free mooring with the charter boats in the marina, and a short walk to shops and laundromat. It has been pouring with rain on and off since we arrived, an opportunity to read the weekend newspapers and catch up with emails. The bay has a huge population of dolphins, and is on the migration route for humpback and right whales - they start appearing mid May heading north for Queensland so we hope for good sightings in the coming weeks.
Broken Bay
At last, for the first time for a couple of weeks we had wind - from the south. It came with a front passing through so we also had a day and night of rain, and a damp overcast trip up the coast to Broken Bay. Only about 15 miles up the coast, so we arrived in time for a late lunch of the small tuna we had caught en route. Broken Bay, as you can probably see on Google Earth, is a huge area of long narrow arms of water, much of which is in the Kuringai Chase national park, and looks from the water much as the original explorers must have found it. Steep rocky banks all around. In those days there was a considerable population of Aboriginees, and as in other places they either killed them or indirectly killed them with their imported diseases. These days the only traces of them are rock engravings, middens, and rock shelters. We spent a few days exploring the bay - very conveniently there are free national park moorings in many of the isolated little inlets. Just as well as the narrow fingers of water are surprisingly deep. I was keen to re-visit Bobbin Head, not far from the hospital I worked in in the 70's, and remembered as a beautiful spot. It still is, and although probably very busy in season, at this time of year it was quiet and empty and we had a lovely walk along a boardwalk through the mangroves, and along a path beside a tidal creek rather reminiscent of parts of Cornwall.
Manly
Manly is only a ferry ride away from Circular Quay in Sydney but offers swimming quality water and a seaside holiday atmosphere as well as having very desirable commuter homes with ocean or harbour views. It is surrounded by bits of national park, and we anchored off a small beach in the park area which is in a 'penguin conservation area' - during the breeding season the fairy penguins come ashore as dusk to their nests. Not the breeding season at the moment, but penguins can be seen in and on the water though it is hard to distinguish them from sea gulls unless close to.
The entrance to Sydney Harbour is through two high 'heads'; North Head being a high vertical cliff, very recognisable from a long way out to sea. We walked to the cliffs which give a wonderful view over the city and its waters as well as the rocks and surf below. All very calm while we were there - an international surfing championship further up the coast must have been more of a paddling competition. The North Head area, being quite isolated, was a quarantine area for many years - ships often arrived with cases of smallpox and cholera on board, and even bubonic plague. There are three old cemeteries showing that hundreds of people never left the area.
The entrance to Sydney Harbour is through two high 'heads'; North Head being a high vertical cliff, very recognisable from a long way out to sea. We walked to the cliffs which give a wonderful view over the city and its waters as well as the rocks and surf below. All very calm while we were there - an international surfing championship further up the coast must have been more of a paddling competition. The North Head area, being quite isolated, was a quarantine area for many years - ships often arrived with cases of smallpox and cholera on board, and even bubonic plague. There are three old cemeteries showing that hundreds of people never left the area.
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