Well, we made it to Sydney, though at one or two stages thought we wouldn't get here in time. Found a berth in the Cruising Assoc. of Australia 'marina'. They organise the annual Sydney to Hobart yacht race which leaves on Boxing Day, so there are quite a few empty places until the boats return. It is right in the centre of the city. Last night, with B, B, and B's daughter H on board we headed out to the next bay round where we were right next to the Opera House and Bridge. It was choc a bloc with boats - anchoring areas being very rigidly marked and patrolled but we found ourselves a good spot. Had a fantastic view while we ate a nice dinner. Thousands of people all around the water's edge which is mostly park, and an equally crowded area on the other side of the harbour.
At 9pm there was a shortish but impressive firework display, with more every hour, then at 30 and 15 mins to midnight. Then the big show. Not only over the bridge, but also from the top of high rise buildings in the city, and other points in the harbour. Also lazers and projected pictures, and a parade of illuminated boats. Quite fantastic, and as there was very little wind and a nearly clear sky weather conditions were much better than expected. Definitely lived up to expectations. Wending our way through the boats, many of which were also on the move, was quite a task, but we returned safely to our berth. Very ready for some sleep.
To go back a bit, I think I mentioned that our dinghy didn't arrive in time in Mooloolaba. B and B said they would collect it, put it on their roof rack and bring it to us. But it then went missing and couldn't be found anywhere. In spite of a tracking number. Eventually the transport company said that they would return it to Sydney (at no extra charge ha ha, I should think not), so B and B started driving southwards. Their phone call, and ours, and the dinghy suppliers, were to no avail, it had just disappeared. We were worried as the supplier said that they were not insured for loss en route. Then suddenly it was found, and yesterday B and B went to pick it up in Sydney, only to be told that it was on its way to Brisbane! Luckily they saw it in the depot, and so took it, but with no check of their identity - they said they could have walked off with anything!
Then we found out that all the roads in this area were to be closed at 3pm - until 3am on 1st. So it was a rush for them to get here in time, but they did thank goodness, and a smart new yellow-and-white dinghy is safely tied on deck. It had been a long day for all of us. We started off well from Mooloolaba with current and wind in our favour but then the wind dropped, and then swung onto our nose. So lots of motoring, 4 nights out, and pouring rain most of the time. Plus quite rough seas. Not the nicest trip ever. We arrived at the entrance to Sydney Harbour at 2am on 31st so not much sleep that night. But it is always exciting sailing into a big city port with all the ships (and cruise ships) and ferries rushing around; and this harbour is deep and easy.
Our position is 33 52.430 S and 151 13.932 E (Rushcutters Bay) No fish, but reel etc lost overboard, and unsuccessful MOB drill.
December 31, 2009
December 29, 2009
En Route to Sydney
We had a very good time with B, B and family on board. They brought huge cool boxes with all the food including a large bowl of enormous prawns and it was all cooked and ready to go on the table, great. There was a beach just across the road from the marina so we splashed in the surf or just sat in the shade and watched the world on holiday. Went for a pre-breakfast swim on the 25th, and at 6am there were lots of people breakfasting and BBQing under the trees behind the beach. What a different world.
The fly in the ointment was that the dinghy didn't arrive as promised. We think it is in the depot in Brisbane, but Mon is a public holiday to make up for 26th being a Sat. so nothing happens until Tues. Then not enough time to get to Sydney for new year. So B and B very kindly offered to take delivery of it and put it on their roof rack and drive it to wherever we are by then, which is a very noble offer - particularly as after we left they texted us to say that their little cottage outside Brisbane was flooded and they had had to evacuate! Seems no damage done, just wet.
So we are 218 miles from Sydney at 11am on Mon 28th. There's a current going our way so we have been making good speed except for the last few hours with no wind at all. A fair bit of rain which keep the decks clear of salt anyway.
Position 30 39.584 S and 153 15.916 E Temp a pleasant 20C No fish.
The fly in the ointment was that the dinghy didn't arrive as promised. We think it is in the depot in Brisbane, but Mon is a public holiday to make up for 26th being a Sat. so nothing happens until Tues. Then not enough time to get to Sydney for new year. So B and B very kindly offered to take delivery of it and put it on their roof rack and drive it to wherever we are by then, which is a very noble offer - particularly as after we left they texted us to say that their little cottage outside Brisbane was flooded and they had had to evacuate! Seems no damage done, just wet.
So we are 218 miles from Sydney at 11am on Mon 28th. There's a current going our way so we have been making good speed except for the last few hours with no wind at all. A fair bit of rain which keep the decks clear of salt anyway.
Position 30 39.584 S and 153 15.916 E Temp a pleasant 20C No fish.
December 22, 2009
Mooloolaba
After a nail biting but pleasant trip through the Great Sandy Strait between Frazer Island and the mainland, (only nearly going aground once, and on a falling tide)we decided to just keep going and sail overnight to Mooloolaba. The wind tends to come up in the afternoon and evenings with nothing in the mornings so we thought we'd make the most of it. There was a very impressive electrical storm behind us as it got dark with great sheets and strikes of lightening which luckily never got close. Arrived here at 4.30 just as dawn was breaking, and as we had booked our berth in the marina were able to come straight in.
Haven't explored much yet, but there are elegant houses on the other side of the river, and a nice park on the sea side behind us. Should be a good spot for Christmas Day. It doesn't feel very Christmassy, but it is definitely summer holiday time.
So fish (mackerel type) two, no lures lost, mizzen sheet jammed, maybe the bearing, dinghy not arrived yet.
Haven't explored much yet, but there are elegant houses on the other side of the river, and a nice park on the sea side behind us. Should be a good spot for Christmas Day. It doesn't feel very Christmassy, but it is definitely summer holiday time.
So fish (mackerel type) two, no lures lost, mizzen sheet jammed, maybe the bearing, dinghy not arrived yet.
en route
We didn't get very far today. When we left the mooring to go to the jetty to fill up with water we made hardly any progress. Our mooring lines were covered not only with mud and slime but also barnacles, so we assumed that the prop had acquired growth too. The only solution was to put on a tank and dive into the murk to clean it up. We had warnings from two people that there were bull sharks in the river, so it was with great trepidation that G. covered up in a black 'skin' and went in. The prop was indeed a ball of growth, so he did as quick a job as possible and the rest will have to be done some time in clearer water.
Because of this we were later leaving than planned, but in fact the tide was still coming in a bit, and we made very slow progress down the river. Then across Hervey Bay to Fraser Island, not much wind so plenty of motoring. Having left at 4.45am, we eventually dropped anchor at 6.30pm - the total hours of daylight. We will never get to Sydney by new year at this rate!
Because of this we were later leaving than planned, but in fact the tide was still coming in a bit, and we made very slow progress down the river. Then across Hervey Bay to Fraser Island, not much wind so plenty of motoring. Having left at 4.45am, we eventually dropped anchor at 6.30pm - the total hours of daylight. We will never get to Sydney by new year at this rate!
October 2, 2009
Arrival in Oz
We arrived safe and sound in Bundaberg this morning. Earlier than we thought as the wind came up - wind that we could have done with a couple of days ago! Customs, Immigration and Quarantine officials came on board, and gave us the most thorough check that we've ever had - looking into every cupboard and locker with a torch. All very friendly though, and we were able to keep more food than we had thought. Apart from fruit and veg which have to go, dairy products and cooked meats are OK as long as they are of Australian, NZ or EU origin. Some of our stronger pain killers were listed, and if we use them while here we have to tell them. Also they took a mace spray which has been on board since we bought the boat and no one has ever asked about it or noticed it before.
This marina is quite a way from the town, so tomorrow we are getting a bus in. Can't wait to stock up with crispy salad and some fruit.
In the meantime we are going to have an early night and hopefully our 8hrs uninterrupted sleep.
Position 24 45.648 S and 152 23.249 E
This marina is quite a way from the town, so tomorrow we are getting a bus in. Can't wait to stock up with crispy salad and some fruit.
In the meantime we are going to have an early night and hopefully our 8hrs uninterrupted sleep.
Position 24 45.648 S and 152 23.249 E
October 1, 2009
day 3 position report
Position 23 38 S and 153 43 E
Could still do with a bit more wind. Put the ballooner up this morning as the wind has swung behind us. Last time we used it it tore, and our attempts at mending it without any fabric for a patch were not sufficient for the pressure so it began to separate along a seam after a couple of hours. Pity as it gave us an extra half knot at least. So we've had to motor a bit, though not much in the last 24 hours.
We hear that a cloud of red dust is still hanging over Brisbane, and we certainly have gritty decks and reddish ropes even out at sea. Makes for wonderfully red sunsets and sunrises.
No fishing lines out as we are still enjoying the yellow fin tuna. Enjoyed the sight of about 50 dolphins on the hunt earlier, gracefully leaping and torpedoing through the water with a few babies right next to their mums in perfect coordination. They were soon gone, certainly not in the mood to play in our bow wave.
Hope tomorrow's report will say that we are tucked up in a marina and have enjoyed a hot shower (not that we have lacked hot water on the boat with the motoring we have been doing).
Could still do with a bit more wind. Put the ballooner up this morning as the wind has swung behind us. Last time we used it it tore, and our attempts at mending it without any fabric for a patch were not sufficient for the pressure so it began to separate along a seam after a couple of hours. Pity as it gave us an extra half knot at least. So we've had to motor a bit, though not much in the last 24 hours.
We hear that a cloud of red dust is still hanging over Brisbane, and we certainly have gritty decks and reddish ropes even out at sea. Makes for wonderfully red sunsets and sunrises.
No fishing lines out as we are still enjoying the yellow fin tuna. Enjoyed the sight of about 50 dolphins on the hunt earlier, gracefully leaping and torpedoing through the water with a few babies right next to their mums in perfect coordination. They were soon gone, certainly not in the mood to play in our bow wave.
Hope tomorrow's report will say that we are tucked up in a marina and have enjoyed a hot shower (not that we have lacked hot water on the boat with the motoring we have been doing).
September 30, 2009
day 2 position report
Started off the day with the news of a bad earthquake followed by a tsunami in Samoa with tsunami warnings for Vanuatu and New Caledonia. Best place to be is out in deep water, and in fact the damage was fairly local if nasty.
At the time we were nearing Wreck Reef, and decided that we'd steer well clear of that one! A lot more motoring last night, but today mainly sailing with plenty of sail trimming and putting up and down of the stay sail. We are on course time-wise, keeping up the 5 knot average. As we cover the miles westwards we notice the time change - it's not dark until 7pm instead of 6 now, and we'll be 10 hours ahead of GMT when we arrive instead of 11.
At the time we were nearing Wreck Reef, and decided that we'd steer well clear of that one! A lot more motoring last night, but today mainly sailing with plenty of sail trimming and putting up and down of the stay sail. We are on course time-wise, keeping up the 5 knot average. As we cover the miles westwards we notice the time change - it's not dark until 7pm instead of 6 now, and we'll be 10 hours ahead of GMT when we arrive instead of 11.
September 29, 2009
day 1 position report
Position 21 02 S and 156 45 E
Had a calm and rather slow night last night and this morning, had to motor quite a bit to keep up our 5 knot average. This afternoon the wind has come through at last so we are bouncing along merrily.
Fish tally - one very nice yellow fin tuna. No lures lost. We have just enjoyed our 'starter' of tuna sushi, and G is preparing seared tuna steak for main course.
Had a calm and rather slow night last night and this morning, had to motor quite a bit to keep up our 5 knot average. This afternoon the wind has come through at last so we are bouncing along merrily.
Fish tally - one very nice yellow fin tuna. No lures lost. We have just enjoyed our 'starter' of tuna sushi, and G is preparing seared tuna steak for main course.
September 28, 2009
australia here we come
We left about an hour ago, at sundown. The forecast for the next few days doesn't show any strong winds and we want to be sure to arrive before the weekend as it costs about 100 pounds more for immigration overtime fees! So are giving ourselves an extra night, and will need to average 5 knots to get there in time which should be achievable.
We're sorry to leave here as have really enjoyed visiting the islets which are mostly sand. Thousands of birds are nesting in the stunted little trees, in the ground growth, and just on the sand. At least two types of terns, two types of boobies/gannets, noddies, frigate birds and cormorants. There are eggs, tiny babies, and huge fluffy chicks. Took lots of photos today, will be interesting to see how they have turned out, lots of duds probably.
We're sorry to leave here as have really enjoyed visiting the islets which are mostly sand. Thousands of birds are nesting in the stunted little trees, in the ground growth, and just on the sand. At least two types of terns, two types of boobies/gannets, noddies, frigate birds and cormorants. There are eggs, tiny babies, and huge fluffy chicks. Took lots of photos today, will be interesting to see how they have turned out, lots of duds probably.
bonjour from chesterfield reef
Got the anchor down at 10am this morning after a good couple of days sail from New Caledonia. Actually this is still part of NC. If you are able to find us on Google World, you will see that it is a horseshoe shaped reef, with a few little sand-and-scrub islets. Wild and gorgeous. The nearest little islet has a tern colony, and we disturbed hundreds of them as we came in; hope they don't decide that rigging is a good place for a perch.
Heard on NZ radio yesterday that a cloud of Aussie red dust is drifting across to Auckland; well, we've intercepted it and have dusty red everything. Need a good shower of rain but don't think we'll be getting it.
Heard on NZ radio yesterday that a cloud of Aussie red dust is drifting across to Auckland; well, we've intercepted it and have dusty red everything. Need a good shower of rain but don't think we'll be getting it.
Re fishing, one skipjack tuna hooked and thrown back, and four huge fish (probably sword fish) hooked but they luckily got away after straightening our hooks and chewing the trace wire. Luckily still have a bit of 3 day old fish in the frig.
Position 19 53.454 S and 158 28.149 E It's 300 miles to the nearest land eastwards, and about 400 miles to the nearest bit of Australia. Not too lonesome though as two other boats arrived before us, and Cat Coquette is an hour or so behind.
September 20, 2009
bonjour from baie de croissant
We've had a busy morning. The cruising guide said the beaches here had good 'fossiking' so we have been doing just that as we are hoping to find a good sample of the indigenous nautilus shell. Only broken ones to date but we keep looking. They are of the same family as squid and octopus, but have their shell outside. As they grow they start a new chamber to live in, closing off the old one which is filled with a gas that keeps them afloat. We have seen the cross section of a shell and it looks like a plane's engine (G says a turbine blade). Made a good fire on the beach to burn rubbish and the oily cloths and newspapers from an oil change. Then prepared to smoke some fish - we caught a large Spanish mackerel yesterday. Having lost the BBQ grid overboard last time we did some smoking, we have had to improvise with an old metal in/out tray found discarded! Hope Australia can produce a new one.
Having checked out of New Caledonia (which has to be done in Numea) we are officially on route for Bundaberg but are making our way up the coast before heading west to Chesterfield Reef which will be a 2-day trip. A lot of the northbound trip has been inside the barrier reef so nice and calm, then we did an overnight trip outside the reef to a small town just south of here. With the wind behind us it was a fast but very rolly trip; even wedged in with pillows it was almost impossible to sleep.
Having checked out of New Caledonia (which has to be done in Numea) we are officially on route for Bundaberg but are making our way up the coast before heading west to Chesterfield Reef which will be a 2-day trip. A lot of the northbound trip has been inside the barrier reef so nice and calm, then we did an overnight trip outside the reef to a small town just south of here. With the wind behind us it was a fast but very rolly trip; even wedged in with pillows it was almost impossible to sleep.
Yesterday evening after dark we do what we often do in calm waters, shine a torch into the water beside the boat. This attracts tiny fish very quickly, then slightly larger ones come for a meal. Last night there were a lot of thread-like sea snakes, and a small octopus. It's always different, and always entertaining.
September 7, 2009
New Caledonia
Well, Bonjour New Caledonia - and the view of greenish-brown rolling hills is a bit like Scotland (if you cut out the palm trees along the shore). Could never see much in Vanuatu that was similar to the Hebrides, it was rather a stretch of the imagination to call it New Hebrides originally.
We've had quite a tough 2-day-and-night sail. Luckily with plenty of wind from the east which is what we wanted, but the seas have been chunky and splashy. Yours truly rather queasy most of the time in spite of continuous pill popping. Had enough pre-cooked food to keep us going, but really enjoyed bacon sausage and eggs on arrival at 5.30 this morning. We still have about 35 miles to go, but are allowed to anchor with quarantine flag flying after negotiating a channel through reefs which has to be timed for the tide. So we came through at 3am without problems as it is well charted with leading lights and lighthouses. Will rest today, and catch the tide tomorrow morning for the rest of the journey.
September 1, 2009
Farewell to Vanuatu
We are back in the 'big city' of Vila, (17 44 191 and 168 18 525) which really does seem like a city and hardly like the same country after the little villages we have been to recently. There is our favourite Nambawan Cafe where we can sit and look out over the harbour with a good cup of coffee and free wifi. Then a visit to the Nambatu Au Bon Marche with cheese, pate and lots of goodies on the shelves. Also a huge market with locally grown fruit and veg. A little red fruit they call raspberry but which looks more like wild strawberries is in season at the moment. Not the flavour of the fruit we know, but still good on cereal and yoghurt. Also guanabana (soursop) is on every stall which makes delicious juice once you have sieved out the large pips and cotton-wool-like inner part.
One of our jobs here is to get an Australian visa. A 3-month one is available on line, but we will need much more time than that if we want to make a visit to England and sail down to Tasmania and then sail all the way up the east coast to Darwin before heading off northwards to pastures new. So lots of forms to fill in, plus proof of funds, plus a letter with the reason we need a 2-year multiple entry visa. So today we are off to the Oz High Commission to talk nicely to the lady who decides whether we get it or not! Definitely a day for a clean shirt. The only passport photo we have of the captain is of him in corporate mode with suit and tie and no beard, hardly the same man!
We will be sorry to leave Vanuatu, our next destination, New Caledonia, which is French territory, will be much less remote. We have been wondering what the inevitable march of progress will do to these islands. Vodaphone's construction of mobile phone masts on nearly every island has had a huge affect. One the plus side it gives the possibility of communication with family living elsewhere, for medical emergencies, and to keep in touch with supply boats. But money is needed to buy and run phones where many people were living in an almost totally cash-free self sufficient way before. Main villages have a sun panel to power a plug socket where phones can be charged; this means that someone from outlying villages (often 2 days walk away) has to make a pilgrimage every few weeks with all the village phones to get them charged up! He will make fire by rubbing two sticks together, pick or catch his food en route, drink from streams, and often have to carry a heavy weight of yams or equivalent as a gift to friends and relations in his destination.
Of course many young people want to head for the bright lights to make money. Secondary education usually involves living away from home as well. It is rather sad that there is very little work available in the towns, life is much more expensive and very different to what they are used to, and often they eventually go home again. There they find that they haven't learned the skills that are essential for self-sufficiency in a remote village. Talking to the older people, most are reluctant for change to come. At present if their little generator breaks down or they can't pay for phone calls, life still goes on as it always has and they are fine. Many plans for tourist resorts have been turned down by local chiefs. Visitors are always welcome, and there is always a 'guest house' for them to stay - but they are used mainly by visitors from other villages who are used to sleeping on a mat on the floor, using a privy which is a hole in the ground with two planks over, and washing in the sea or a stream. So the few foreigners who visit anywhere outside the main towns are either young backpackers who don't mind roughing it, or teachers, missionaries, and medical people. Plus the likes of us who have our own little homes afloat.
So a few more days before the wind looks good for the 2-day, and often rough, trip to Numea in New Caledonia. Evidently the charts of the area are accurate which is more than can be said for Vanuatu, where we have often been anchored on 'land'. The only accurate charts are of the harbours used by the US army during WWII, the others could be Capt. Cook's originals which have been transferred straight onto electronic charts as well!
One of our jobs here is to get an Australian visa. A 3-month one is available on line, but we will need much more time than that if we want to make a visit to England and sail down to Tasmania and then sail all the way up the east coast to Darwin before heading off northwards to pastures new. So lots of forms to fill in, plus proof of funds, plus a letter with the reason we need a 2-year multiple entry visa. So today we are off to the Oz High Commission to talk nicely to the lady who decides whether we get it or not! Definitely a day for a clean shirt. The only passport photo we have of the captain is of him in corporate mode with suit and tie and no beard, hardly the same man!
We will be sorry to leave Vanuatu, our next destination, New Caledonia, which is French territory, will be much less remote. We have been wondering what the inevitable march of progress will do to these islands. Vodaphone's construction of mobile phone masts on nearly every island has had a huge affect. One the plus side it gives the possibility of communication with family living elsewhere, for medical emergencies, and to keep in touch with supply boats. But money is needed to buy and run phones where many people were living in an almost totally cash-free self sufficient way before. Main villages have a sun panel to power a plug socket where phones can be charged; this means that someone from outlying villages (often 2 days walk away) has to make a pilgrimage every few weeks with all the village phones to get them charged up! He will make fire by rubbing two sticks together, pick or catch his food en route, drink from streams, and often have to carry a heavy weight of yams or equivalent as a gift to friends and relations in his destination.
Of course many young people want to head for the bright lights to make money. Secondary education usually involves living away from home as well. It is rather sad that there is very little work available in the towns, life is much more expensive and very different to what they are used to, and often they eventually go home again. There they find that they haven't learned the skills that are essential for self-sufficiency in a remote village. Talking to the older people, most are reluctant for change to come. At present if their little generator breaks down or they can't pay for phone calls, life still goes on as it always has and they are fine. Many plans for tourist resorts have been turned down by local chiefs. Visitors are always welcome, and there is always a 'guest house' for them to stay - but they are used mainly by visitors from other villages who are used to sleeping on a mat on the floor, using a privy which is a hole in the ground with two planks over, and washing in the sea or a stream. So the few foreigners who visit anywhere outside the main towns are either young backpackers who don't mind roughing it, or teachers, missionaries, and medical people. Plus the likes of us who have our own little homes afloat.
So a few more days before the wind looks good for the 2-day, and often rough, trip to Numea in New Caledonia. Evidently the charts of the area are accurate which is more than can be said for Vanuatu, where we have often been anchored on 'land'. The only accurate charts are of the harbours used by the US army during WWII, the others could be Capt. Cook's originals which have been transferred straight onto electronic charts as well!
August 3, 2009
Banks islands hospitality
The Banks islands are at the northern end of the Vanuatu chain. Remote and traditional, and just about off the tourist trail except for a few hardy backpackers who don't mind walking miles and sleeping in basic village guest huts.
We sailed into Lakona Bay, Gaua (14 18 850 and 167 25 902) one afternoon with a couple of other boats, and Chief Henry paddled out to welcome us. He said that he would meet us all on the beach later and take us to his village where 'a little ceremony' had been prepared for us. So we paraded as requested, and were led across rocks and up a steep little path to his village of about 20 people. Amongst little thatched huts with woven panels on the walls, was a meeting place with roof but no sides. Here we were lined up, and the women sang a song of welcome accompanied by the men on a variety of instruments - home made 'guitars' with fishing line strings, drums, bamboo sticks. Then we each received a garland and a handshake and were invited to sit and have coconut to drink and pieces of grapefruit to eat while the children danced for us with much giggling (and were given balloons and sweets for their efforts).
What a welcome, and what a village. Just about everything they have they make or grow. Their only income has traditionally been copra, but now the price is so low that it is just not worth the considerable labour to prepare it. Consequently the copra boat (Chinese run) only calls about twice a year, so that is the only time they get other supplies - not that they have much cash to buy anything. The few visiting yachts are just about their only source of supply for odds and ends like fish hooks and line and clothing, so they trade fruit and vegetables.
It is a sustainable way of life as they have plenty of food - pigs, chickens, cattle, fish and seafood; and a constant supply of fruit and vegetables. They make their own dug-out canoes with outriggers, weave traps for shrimps and crayfish, make oil for lighting from coconut, and have a life expectancy of about 80 we were informed. The traditional organisation of their society is very strong, everyone is looked after and there is just about no crime (any misdemeanors are dealt with locally, usually by some sort of community labour) The children are expected to think nothing of walking for a couple of hours to their nearest school; and adults think nothing of carrying loads of everything from firewood to coconuts on their shoulders.
The next day had another treat in store. The women of this particular village make 'water music' by clapping and splashing with their hands at various depths under water. It is loud, rhythmical, and like nothing we had ever heard before. Also, we decided, very good exercise for the arms but not as easy as it looks.
Every village is different. Our next port of call was on Vanua Lava (13 55 574 and 167 26 809), and here Paramount Chief Godfrey has a radio powered by a small solar panel and a battery; so he called us up on arrival and said that Chief Graham would meet us the next morning. At 6am Chief G and helpers were busy making a bamboo jetty for our dinghy over the rocks. They helped us to disembark, then lifted the dinghy up onto its smooth new resting place. Then another walk over rocks and up an even steeper path to his house which was by itself in a clearing. After a rest (his house had a few photos left by other yachts, and our Danish friends were amazed to see a photo of an Irish couple they last met in Spain ten years before!) we were taken to the small settlement where Paramount Chief Godfrey, with a (much prized)circular boar's tusk hanging round his neck met us. He had a carefully tended garden around his house, with little hedges and flowering shrubs. His battery also supplied power to an LED light that was corroded and not working. Engineer G put it in his pocket for maintenance (we still have a huge stalk of bananas as a gift after he fixed a spear gun in another island).
The next day was Chief Graham's birthday, and also that of his 8 yr old son, and we were invited to celebrate it with him. So I cooked up my last packet of brownie mix, and found some of those birthday candles that you can't blow out. Once again we were welcomed with a song and garlands round our necks. His wife and daughters had produced a wonderful spread using cassava, coconut, local nuts, and cooking bananas; all laid out on banana leaves on the floor mats. Also the village had slaughtered a cow, so there was beef cooked with curry and local cabbage. All very delicious. We were with our Danish friends, and the men went outside to drink kava - which tastes like muddy water, and has a calming effect, making the mouth and tongue a bit numb and the legs shaky if you drink too much. It's a man thing, (thank goodness) and we stayed inside to eat while they ate later. Even the birthday boys didn't get to eat the special foods, just bowls of rice and root vegetables (though no doubt they ate it later after we had gone).
The 30th July was Independence Day, and we were asked to attend the flag-raising ceremony. Unfortunately all the fun and games - dancing, music etc was in the evening, and the main village was not only 30 mins walk on a stony and slippery path, but we also had to launch the dinghy from it's bamboo jetty; not a safe option in the dark. Still, we had fun meeting the villagers, watching them preparing laplap and kava for the evening, an learning how to make woven palm leaf balls by young girls. The population of this much larger village is about 1000, so it has a school (buildings funded by the UK) a clinic, a large church, and a football field. Behind the flag pole were 4 white plastic chairs; in front of the flagpole the whole village were assembled in their best clothing. Guess who the chairs were for. Oh dear! The elderly Paramount Chief and other dignitaries who made speeches, were our side too, but all standing. Quite ironic really that we were guests of honour when they were celebrating the fact that in 1980 they got rid of British (and joint French) rule at last. The flag got a bit stuck at the top of the flagpole, and the loud hailer only worked occasionally, but everyone was on their best behaviour, even the many children. (and Engineer Geoff got to take the loud hailer back to the boat for maintenance)
People walk or paddle their canoes many miles from small villages to the larger ones for these celebrations; and yesterday we were asked if we would take 10 villagers on board 'just round the headland' to their village as there was no path due to the steep volcanic terrain, and they had no canoe transport. So at 8am our passengers arrived and we set off. Put out a fishing line, and soon had 2 large fish which the locals happily dealt with, and took home with them. We had been asked to leave them at a beach (actually a couple of hours' journey and round several 'headlands') where they would then have a 3-hour trek home, but we decided to take them all the way. It worked out well, because a reef in the distance was pointed out to us, and we could see that there were two boats anchored there. A few days of non-village life felt quite appealing. So after unloading our extra crew, and waiting while they went off to their plantations to get fruit for us as a 'thank you' we set off for this uninhabited reef with a couple of little coral islands and lots of white sand (13 38 148 and 167 30 383).
We sailed into Lakona Bay, Gaua (14 18 850 and 167 25 902) one afternoon with a couple of other boats, and Chief Henry paddled out to welcome us. He said that he would meet us all on the beach later and take us to his village where 'a little ceremony' had been prepared for us. So we paraded as requested, and were led across rocks and up a steep little path to his village of about 20 people. Amongst little thatched huts with woven panels on the walls, was a meeting place with roof but no sides. Here we were lined up, and the women sang a song of welcome accompanied by the men on a variety of instruments - home made 'guitars' with fishing line strings, drums, bamboo sticks. Then we each received a garland and a handshake and were invited to sit and have coconut to drink and pieces of grapefruit to eat while the children danced for us with much giggling (and were given balloons and sweets for their efforts).
What a welcome, and what a village. Just about everything they have they make or grow. Their only income has traditionally been copra, but now the price is so low that it is just not worth the considerable labour to prepare it. Consequently the copra boat (Chinese run) only calls about twice a year, so that is the only time they get other supplies - not that they have much cash to buy anything. The few visiting yachts are just about their only source of supply for odds and ends like fish hooks and line and clothing, so they trade fruit and vegetables.
It is a sustainable way of life as they have plenty of food - pigs, chickens, cattle, fish and seafood; and a constant supply of fruit and vegetables. They make their own dug-out canoes with outriggers, weave traps for shrimps and crayfish, make oil for lighting from coconut, and have a life expectancy of about 80 we were informed. The traditional organisation of their society is very strong, everyone is looked after and there is just about no crime (any misdemeanors are dealt with locally, usually by some sort of community labour) The children are expected to think nothing of walking for a couple of hours to their nearest school; and adults think nothing of carrying loads of everything from firewood to coconuts on their shoulders.
The next day had another treat in store. The women of this particular village make 'water music' by clapping and splashing with their hands at various depths under water. It is loud, rhythmical, and like nothing we had ever heard before. Also, we decided, very good exercise for the arms but not as easy as it looks.
Every village is different. Our next port of call was on Vanua Lava (13 55 574 and 167 26 809), and here Paramount Chief Godfrey has a radio powered by a small solar panel and a battery; so he called us up on arrival and said that Chief Graham would meet us the next morning. At 6am Chief G and helpers were busy making a bamboo jetty for our dinghy over the rocks. They helped us to disembark, then lifted the dinghy up onto its smooth new resting place. Then another walk over rocks and up an even steeper path to his house which was by itself in a clearing. After a rest (his house had a few photos left by other yachts, and our Danish friends were amazed to see a photo of an Irish couple they last met in Spain ten years before!) we were taken to the small settlement where Paramount Chief Godfrey, with a (much prized)circular boar's tusk hanging round his neck met us. He had a carefully tended garden around his house, with little hedges and flowering shrubs. His battery also supplied power to an LED light that was corroded and not working. Engineer G put it in his pocket for maintenance (we still have a huge stalk of bananas as a gift after he fixed a spear gun in another island).
The next day was Chief Graham's birthday, and also that of his 8 yr old son, and we were invited to celebrate it with him. So I cooked up my last packet of brownie mix, and found some of those birthday candles that you can't blow out. Once again we were welcomed with a song and garlands round our necks. His wife and daughters had produced a wonderful spread using cassava, coconut, local nuts, and cooking bananas; all laid out on banana leaves on the floor mats. Also the village had slaughtered a cow, so there was beef cooked with curry and local cabbage. All very delicious. We were with our Danish friends, and the men went outside to drink kava - which tastes like muddy water, and has a calming effect, making the mouth and tongue a bit numb and the legs shaky if you drink too much. It's a man thing, (thank goodness) and we stayed inside to eat while they ate later. Even the birthday boys didn't get to eat the special foods, just bowls of rice and root vegetables (though no doubt they ate it later after we had gone).
The 30th July was Independence Day, and we were asked to attend the flag-raising ceremony. Unfortunately all the fun and games - dancing, music etc was in the evening, and the main village was not only 30 mins walk on a stony and slippery path, but we also had to launch the dinghy from it's bamboo jetty; not a safe option in the dark. Still, we had fun meeting the villagers, watching them preparing laplap and kava for the evening, an learning how to make woven palm leaf balls by young girls. The population of this much larger village is about 1000, so it has a school (buildings funded by the UK) a clinic, a large church, and a football field. Behind the flag pole were 4 white plastic chairs; in front of the flagpole the whole village were assembled in their best clothing. Guess who the chairs were for. Oh dear! The elderly Paramount Chief and other dignitaries who made speeches, were our side too, but all standing. Quite ironic really that we were guests of honour when they were celebrating the fact that in 1980 they got rid of British (and joint French) rule at last. The flag got a bit stuck at the top of the flagpole, and the loud hailer only worked occasionally, but everyone was on their best behaviour, even the many children. (and Engineer Geoff got to take the loud hailer back to the boat for maintenance)
People walk or paddle their canoes many miles from small villages to the larger ones for these celebrations; and yesterday we were asked if we would take 10 villagers on board 'just round the headland' to their village as there was no path due to the steep volcanic terrain, and they had no canoe transport. So at 8am our passengers arrived and we set off. Put out a fishing line, and soon had 2 large fish which the locals happily dealt with, and took home with them. We had been asked to leave them at a beach (actually a couple of hours' journey and round several 'headlands') where they would then have a 3-hour trek home, but we decided to take them all the way. It worked out well, because a reef in the distance was pointed out to us, and we could see that there were two boats anchored there. A few days of non-village life felt quite appealing. So after unloading our extra crew, and waiting while they went off to their plantations to get fruit for us as a 'thank you' we set off for this uninhabited reef with a couple of little coral islands and lots of white sand (13 38 148 and 167 30 383).
July 16, 2009
Lolowai Bay, Ambae
We are anchored in a 'drowned volcanic crater' - ie one that has broken open so that the sea could flood in. Entering involved sailing over a rock and coral 'wall' at high tide into a very sheltered circular bay of deep water with steep wooded slopes all around. Passing near the cliffs we disturbed a huge number of fruit bats (flying foxes) which wheeled around with strange squeaking noises.
We arrived with a good catch of fish - three yellow-fin tuna all caught together on our three lines, so spent the evening preparing the fillets for smoking. This involves soaking them in brine and sugar for a while, then threading cotton through each one and hanging them on the rigging to dry off and form a slight skin. By this time it was dark, so tying them onto the grid of the smoker was difficult and we lost the grid overboard in 11m of water. Rigged up another with wire, then abandoned the process until morning. The number one (nambawan in local pidgin) wood for smoking in NZ is manuka, so we are well equipped with wood chips, and it produced some of the best smoked fish we have had - someone said it was like fishy parma ham!
We arrived with a good catch of fish - three yellow-fin tuna all caught together on our three lines, so spent the evening preparing the fillets for smoking. This involves soaking them in brine and sugar for a while, then threading cotton through each one and hanging them on the rigging to dry off and form a slight skin. By this time it was dark, so tying them onto the grid of the smoker was difficult and we lost the grid overboard in 11m of water. Rigged up another with wire, then abandoned the process until morning. The number one (nambawan in local pidgin) wood for smoking in NZ is manuka, so we are well equipped with wood chips, and it produced some of the best smoked fish we have had - someone said it was like fishy parma ham!
Pentecost - pastors and the original bungy jump
"Yes, you can get bread at the school kitchen up on the hill" said the rotund and cheery retired pastor who had taken upon himself to be our guide up to a pretty waterfall a short distance from the beach. The steep hot walk up the hill was in vain, no bread left. Zakias was awaiting our return, sitting under a tree keeping an eye on our dinghy as the tide crept in. Doesn't matter I said, I'll make some in the morning. He was all agog, asking how on earth we could make bread on a boat. Cooking here is either in an earth oven over hot stones, or on an open wood fire. Not sure what he imagined our facilities on board were like! An oven! Gas! "This I have to see, you must take me to your boat to see your oven" So he hopped agilely into the dinghy (all 78-years and many kilos of him) and we took him on a tour. Would love to have been a fly on the wall as he told his family about how we lived - including an oven that swings as the boat rocks. Sailing boats look bigger inside than they appear to be at a distance rocking on the swell. Position 15 47 224 S and 168 09 722 E Waterfall Bay, Pentecost Island
Our next anchorage on the same island, Loltong Bay 15 32 721 S and 168 08 841 E We dropped anchor in the afternoon and could see and hear the whole village having some sort of celebration. Heard later that they were preparing for the inauguration of a new pastor the next day. ie chickens and pigs were being slaughtered in readiness. Evidently about a hundred chickens with legs tied were laid out in a long line, and ceremonially thumped on the head with a carved stick. We were told that we would be welcome to attend the festivities the next day, and when we heard the tam tam (a big drum) it would be time to go over. Several villages had walked over to join in, and the men of each village danced and then presented the new man with several beautifully woven panandus mats. Difficult to take photos as the women, children, and old men showed their appreciation by dancing round the outside of the group shouting and waving green branches.
Traditional clothing in Pentecost for such an occasion is either a short panandas mat wrapped around the waist, or two squares of mat fore and aft with a bark belt. Green branches are tucked in the back, and feathers, more leaves, or some type of hat (woollen beanie, cap, old straw hat). Footwear, if worn, was, like the hat, a bit of a status symbol we felt. Football boots, leather boots, and a variety of flip flops and sandals. An anklet rattle of seed pods completed the outfit. Those not taking part in the dancing were in western clothes, which for the women in all these islands is a baggy shapeless 'mother hubbard' dress, a legacy of the early missionaries. Cool and colourful if nothing else.
Pentecost is best known for its Land Diving. It is partly a ceremony to ensure a good crop of yams, and partly a rite of manhood. A tall tower is built by binding saplings and branches with vines to form a tower as much as 35m high. Strong vines act as stays on all sides. Small platforms are built at various heights - boys can do their first jump from the age of about 8 or 9, first on the shoulders of their father, then by themselves but from a lower platform. They tie liana vines round their ankles, and their hair (and only their hair) must touch the ground when they jump. The jumps take place in April and May, but we were able to see one of the towers - perched on the side of a hill with the patch below cleared of stones and dug to make a soft soil landing. It is absolutely taboo for anyone except the divers to climb the towers, and from various people we have heard a story of a newspaper man who climbed up to take photos and the tower fell down and either injured or killed him. Some say the supports were cut though others say that of course it collapsed as it was taboo for him to climb. Sorcery, magic and superstition are alive and well in these parts.
Our next anchorage on the same island, Loltong Bay 15 32 721 S and 168 08 841 E We dropped anchor in the afternoon and could see and hear the whole village having some sort of celebration. Heard later that they were preparing for the inauguration of a new pastor the next day. ie chickens and pigs were being slaughtered in readiness. Evidently about a hundred chickens with legs tied were laid out in a long line, and ceremonially thumped on the head with a carved stick. We were told that we would be welcome to attend the festivities the next day, and when we heard the tam tam (a big drum) it would be time to go over. Several villages had walked over to join in, and the men of each village danced and then presented the new man with several beautifully woven panandus mats. Difficult to take photos as the women, children, and old men showed their appreciation by dancing round the outside of the group shouting and waving green branches.
Traditional clothing in Pentecost for such an occasion is either a short panandas mat wrapped around the waist, or two squares of mat fore and aft with a bark belt. Green branches are tucked in the back, and feathers, more leaves, or some type of hat (woollen beanie, cap, old straw hat). Footwear, if worn, was, like the hat, a bit of a status symbol we felt. Football boots, leather boots, and a variety of flip flops and sandals. An anklet rattle of seed pods completed the outfit. Those not taking part in the dancing were in western clothes, which for the women in all these islands is a baggy shapeless 'mother hubbard' dress, a legacy of the early missionaries. Cool and colourful if nothing else.
Pentecost is best known for its Land Diving. It is partly a ceremony to ensure a good crop of yams, and partly a rite of manhood. A tall tower is built by binding saplings and branches with vines to form a tower as much as 35m high. Strong vines act as stays on all sides. Small platforms are built at various heights - boys can do their first jump from the age of about 8 or 9, first on the shoulders of their father, then by themselves but from a lower platform. They tie liana vines round their ankles, and their hair (and only their hair) must touch the ground when they jump. The jumps take place in April and May, but we were able to see one of the towers - perched on the side of a hill with the patch below cleared of stones and dug to make a soft soil landing. It is absolutely taboo for anyone except the divers to climb the towers, and from various people we have heard a story of a newspaper man who climbed up to take photos and the tower fell down and either injured or killed him. Some say the supports were cut though others say that of course it collapsed as it was taboo for him to climb. Sorcery, magic and superstition are alive and well in these parts.
July 12, 2009
Doing the Laundry
Certainly no laundromats in this part of the world, so it is necessary to hunt for a good supply of fresh water. Usually this means collecting rain water - a rain catcher over the deck with hose attached, and various buckets at strategic points to catch what pours off the cockpit cover. The first collection is for laundry and washing, then we reckon it is clean enough to fill our drinking water containers. After that it is poured straight into our 100 litre water tank. If we can get the laundry washed while it is still raining, then the scuppers make a good rinsing spot. And it is very likely that after everything is hung out to dry it will rain again so giving it all an extra rinse.
Recently we have had a much more efficient and effective laundry. In Malekula there was a river we could get up in the dinghy. It was narrow and overhung with mangroves and huge banyan trees. Crabs scuttled up the trucks as we chugged along, and a local man was gently pushing tied bundles of logs along with his dug-out canoe to the spot where he was building a new house. We had to go quite a way up until the water tasted fresh rather than brackish, then while we drifted slowly back to the bay we rinsed sheets and towels in the clean if brownish water.
On the island of Pentecost a much faster flowing river was fresh right to the sea, so we only had to walk over a pebbly beach to stand in knee-deep water. A couple of boys came and chatted to us - one was the chief's son. They showed us a bit of cliff face where 'Cook' and a date were engraved. Capt Cook certainly went to that area, but who knows whether the engraving was genuine! Anyway they were nice lads, and shinned up a coconut tree to get us drinking coconuts.
It got better, because on the next island, Maewo, there was a beautiful waterfall that came right into the bay. The cool deep pool below the falls was perfect for a bath and hairwash as well as the laundry. Evidently at some stage the village received help to build a small hydro power station on the falls, but it didn't seem to be working while we were there, and the only lighting at night was from a couple of small generators. Maintenance is always a problem - there is a great lack of technical expertise in villages where most children only get primary education, and only the 'wealthy' can afford to send their children to a secondary school where they usually have to board. Visiting yachts often get asked for help for repairs, but the equipment is nearly always far too rusted and seized up.
The one thing that all the islands have is a cell phone mast, and a phone is something that is a prized possession. The mast, and a solar panel below it for charging up phones, has been provided by NZ or Oz aid. The sight of a woman sitting on the ground weaving panandas mats for the walls of her house, with a phone next to her is very incongruous.
July 6, 2009
Banam Bay Malekula Island VANUATU
This is the sort of island you read about in National Geographic. In 1969 the last victim went into the cannibal's earth oven (not boiled in a pot, that's a myth), and it is possible to trek up to one of the sacred places where many human bones are still lying around. A few of the older men have elongated skulls - their heads were bound as babies to make them more attractive. There are two main groups, the Big Nambas and the Small Nambas, so called because of their penis sheaths - the Big Nambas use large purple panandus fibres, while the Small Nambas just have one leaf. Needless to say, along the coast most people wear normal clothes, but traditions are still very strong for any special occasion - not just for the tourists of which there are very few.
It is not the place for women's lib., women squat when among men. If a Big Namba woman has pleased her husband he may permit her to take part in the 'tooth ceremony'. This involves her two front teeth being loosened and then knocked out with a stone. This gives her much greater status, and she has to pay a large number of pigs for the privilege. A tusked pig also has to be paid as a fine if she happens to watch any of the ceremonies, or rehearsals, that are only for men and tabu for women. On the other hand if a man goes under a woman's washing line (ie lowering himself to female work) he has to pay a fine, preferably in pigs (even tourists). The most valuable pigs are those whose tusks have grown into a complete circle - some top teeth are removed so the tusks are not ground down. We have noticed that when men paddle up to us in their dug-outs they much prefer to speak to G, and will ask where he is if he doesn't appear.
We are anchored in a lovely bay with a long white beach and a couple of small villages behind the trees. Yesterday they put on some dancing for us - we got together 8 boats from nearbye anchorages to make it worth their while. We were welcomed with leafy garlands, taken on a tour of the village, and welcomed by the chief. This is a Small Namba area, so the men of the village wore small penis sheaths of banana leaf tucked into a bark belt (Big Nambas have huge red leaves!). Some had feathers in their hair or beards, and some had seed pod rattles round their ankles. At this stage the women and children were not to be seen, and to watch the women's dancing we had to go to another clearing. They wore grass skirts, and had the babies and toddlers with them, some of whom just stood wide eyed looking at our white faces, others cried unless they were picked up. They don't get many boats visiting here, so the youngest children have probably never seen strange faces.
After several little speeches of thanks and lots of handshaking we were given coconuts to drink, and invited to eat some 'laplap'. This is a paste of yams cassava or taro mixed with coconut milk and laid out on banana leaves like a thick pastry. Pork, beef, chicken or fish may be added. It is wrapped in more leaves and cooked in an earth oven over hot stones. It was brown and crispy on top, and quite tasty.
July 5, 2009
Pegasus in Pentecost island
This is just to let everyone know that Pegasus has moved. Rumors have it that a more detailed update is coming up soon - the stories we blog keepers get to read are very good. Stay tuned.
June 20, 2009
Vanuatu - efate
A move to the island of Efate and Port Vila, the capital of Vanuatu. It is a small town, but has a wonderful market and a pretty good 'Au Bon Marche' supermarket. The French/English joint administration caused chaos at the time, but left a legacy of baguette, cheese and pate from the French.
One of the fascinating things about the market is the 'packaging'. Sweet potato, yucca, and other root crops are sold in woven palm leaf bags. Coconuts are left with some stalk and tied with cords (all natural fibre) into packages of ten or so. Ginger, mandarins, and some almond-like nuts are strung up like onions. Lettuce are strung six at a time. Greens are wrapped in banana leaves. This is all done by the stall holders who keep themselves busy preparing the produce for sale. As well as fruit and vegetables, there are coconut crabs, boxes filled with the fishy catch of the day, and live chickens. Today we stocked up the boat for the next bit of the journey. Everything has to be washed before being brought inside - did I mention the huge cockroaches that had hitched a ride on some bananas brought to us in Tanna? - so it took all afternoon to wash, dry and find homes for everything. We have bananas and cooking bananas hung up, potatoes and sweet potatoes in net bags, papaya, pineapple and cabbage wrapped in newspaper, a large net bag of passion fruit (as we (I) bought 2 lots by mistake,) and a bowl of tomatoes in varying shades of green and red. When all was safely stowed away the total packaging discarded was a banana leaf and some natural fibre ties (plus a few insects which met a watery end).
During WWII, the Americans had a base here. There were 3 radar stations known as 1, 2, and 3. The names have stayed, but in Bislama, the local pidgin English. So nambawan, nambatu and nambatri. The latter two are now rather nice residential areas, and nambawan is a park at the waters edge. The Nambawan Cafe is very close to where we are anchored, and not only does excellent coffee and muffins, but has wifi internet for free (or the price of a cup of coffee). A very pleasant spot to watch the action in the harbour and meet other cruisers.
Tomorrow, weather permitting (it poured all day yesterday with strong winds), we will move to the north of Efate.
One of the fascinating things about the market is the 'packaging'. Sweet potato, yucca, and other root crops are sold in woven palm leaf bags. Coconuts are left with some stalk and tied with cords (all natural fibre) into packages of ten or so. Ginger, mandarins, and some almond-like nuts are strung up like onions. Lettuce are strung six at a time. Greens are wrapped in banana leaves. This is all done by the stall holders who keep themselves busy preparing the produce for sale. As well as fruit and vegetables, there are coconut crabs, boxes filled with the fishy catch of the day, and live chickens. Today we stocked up the boat for the next bit of the journey. Everything has to be washed before being brought inside - did I mention the huge cockroaches that had hitched a ride on some bananas brought to us in Tanna? - so it took all afternoon to wash, dry and find homes for everything. We have bananas and cooking bananas hung up, potatoes and sweet potatoes in net bags, papaya, pineapple and cabbage wrapped in newspaper, a large net bag of passion fruit (as we (I) bought 2 lots by mistake,) and a bowl of tomatoes in varying shades of green and red. When all was safely stowed away the total packaging discarded was a banana leaf and some natural fibre ties (plus a few insects which met a watery end).
During WWII, the Americans had a base here. There were 3 radar stations known as 1, 2, and 3. The names have stayed, but in Bislama, the local pidgin English. So nambawan, nambatu and nambatri. The latter two are now rather nice residential areas, and nambawan is a park at the waters edge. The Nambawan Cafe is very close to where we are anchored, and not only does excellent coffee and muffins, but has wifi internet for free (or the price of a cup of coffee). A very pleasant spot to watch the action in the harbour and meet other cruisers.
Tomorrow, weather permitting (it poured all day yesterday with strong winds), we will move to the north of Efate.
June 19, 2009
Tanna part two
One of the highlights of Tanna is its active volcano which is one of the few in the world that is accessible. Except when very active it is possible to go right up to the crater to watch the fireworks. Taca and his pick-up were booked to take us up late one afternoon - it is all more impressive after dark. The previous day it had rained all day, and the steep dirt track was part watercourse and part slippery mud. Girls in the back this time, and as drizzle set in, it wasn't the most comfortable drive. Goodness knows why we hadn't taken rain coats but it had been hot and sunny all day. We were pretty damp by the time we got to the cooler altitudes of the crater and walked the last bit up to the top.
We had chosen a day when the volcano was having a bit of a rest unfortunately - other people had told us that it was the most frightening place they had been with loud rumblings and chunks of lava being thrown high into the sky. We had lots of steam, and as darkness fell and red glow was visible over the area. Every few minutes there was a whoosh and molten larva was sent high into the sky, slowly losing its glow as it fell. Not scary, but very impressive and in spite of damp mist and a chilly wind we stayed there watching for a couple of hours. After the ride back to the dinghy and a dinghy ride back to the boat we were ready for a bowl of soup!
We had chosen a day when the volcano was having a bit of a rest unfortunately - other people had told us that it was the most frightening place they had been with loud rumblings and chunks of lava being thrown high into the sky. We had lots of steam, and as darkness fell and red glow was visible over the area. Every few minutes there was a whoosh and molten larva was sent high into the sky, slowly losing its glow as it fell. Not scary, but very impressive and in spite of damp mist and a chilly wind we stayed there watching for a couple of hours. After the ride back to the dinghy and a dinghy ride back to the boat we were ready for a bowl of soup!
June 18, 2009
Vanatu - first impressions from Tanna
Eight days of sailing, and 1100 miles of ocean covered, and we are in another world. The island of Tanna in the island group of Vanuatu to be exact. Villagers in dug-out canoes with lashed outriggers paddled over to say hello when we anchored, taking a little time off from their daily task of catching enough fish in the bay to feed their families. We are the only two boats in the anchorage - one of many in this part of the world that Captain Cook also visited.
The cruising guide says we should find the Yacht Club to organize immigration. All we can see from the water are a few thatched huts, so this sounds a very grand name. In fact it consists of a few very simple huts offering accommodation, and a large semi-open thatched building with a small kitchen where meals are provided for the guests. We are told that Stanley is our man, and we should ask for him in the village - "just walk down the main road". The grassy track leads us past huts with thatch roofs and plaited palm mats attached to the wooden structure for walls. Baby pigs, puppies, chickens and children all over the place and all having a great time together - the chickens happily pecking up the bugs exposed by the pigs' rootling. Everyone is so friendly, shaking hands and introducing themselves; Stanley it appears has gone fishing but will be back soon. There is a 'cultural centre' with imposing carved figures outside made of tree fern wood, now sprouting a bit of greenery as hair. Inside some old photos, and articles about the islands culture and history.
Superficially not much has changed since Cook's time, but real isolation is a thing of the past. New Zealand provided funds to sink 4 wells and install pumps; and a solar panel to provide power for a mobile phone aerial. There is one truck in the village, which means that they have access to the only town on the island, 25km over the mountain to the other side. Most children (but not all) have a primary education, but secondary school is much more expensive and very few families can afford the fees. 'Our' village offered two years of secondary education to children from all the surrounding area, they boarded at the school from Mon to Fri. But they were a very small group from comparatively wealthy families.
Arrangements were made for Stanley to accompany us, in the pick-up, to the town to clear immigration. And we were asked to be ready to go at 6.30am for the 2-hour trip. By about 8am the young driver had woken up and started the engine and we were wishing we had spent a bit more time having a good breakfast before setting out! Us two 'girls' were able to squeeze into the cab, but the men were in the back sitting on a narrow wooden bench - along with a variety of locals who hitched rides along the way. Several stops en route for fuel - a gallon and a half at a time by jug from a barrel by the side of the road. We had to draw money before we were able to do anything else. No ATM here, we could only change NZ and US banknotes. It took the rest of the morning to visit customs, immigration and quarantine; all in different buildings. Lunch was in the dockside restaurant, a thatched hut with two long tables and a curtain at one end behind which was the kitchen. Huge plates of fish, rice and yam were put in front of us, with a bottle of lurid red drink - definitely food for the body not the soul.
On the way back we were able to buy a bit of fruit from roadside stalls - strings (like onions) of freshly picked mandarins, huge pamplamousse like we used to get in French Polynesia, and some green leaves wrapped in a banana leaf. And so back to the boat where we could take down the yellow quarantine flag, and hoist the home-made Vanuatu courtesy flag complete with hand embroidered motif in the centre - plenty of time on an ocean crossing!
The cruising guide says we should find the Yacht Club to organize immigration. All we can see from the water are a few thatched huts, so this sounds a very grand name. In fact it consists of a few very simple huts offering accommodation, and a large semi-open thatched building with a small kitchen where meals are provided for the guests. We are told that Stanley is our man, and we should ask for him in the village - "just walk down the main road". The grassy track leads us past huts with thatch roofs and plaited palm mats attached to the wooden structure for walls. Baby pigs, puppies, chickens and children all over the place and all having a great time together - the chickens happily pecking up the bugs exposed by the pigs' rootling. Everyone is so friendly, shaking hands and introducing themselves; Stanley it appears has gone fishing but will be back soon. There is a 'cultural centre' with imposing carved figures outside made of tree fern wood, now sprouting a bit of greenery as hair. Inside some old photos, and articles about the islands culture and history.
Superficially not much has changed since Cook's time, but real isolation is a thing of the past. New Zealand provided funds to sink 4 wells and install pumps; and a solar panel to provide power for a mobile phone aerial. There is one truck in the village, which means that they have access to the only town on the island, 25km over the mountain to the other side. Most children (but not all) have a primary education, but secondary school is much more expensive and very few families can afford the fees. 'Our' village offered two years of secondary education to children from all the surrounding area, they boarded at the school from Mon to Fri. But they were a very small group from comparatively wealthy families.
Arrangements were made for Stanley to accompany us, in the pick-up, to the town to clear immigration. And we were asked to be ready to go at 6.30am for the 2-hour trip. By about 8am the young driver had woken up and started the engine and we were wishing we had spent a bit more time having a good breakfast before setting out! Us two 'girls' were able to squeeze into the cab, but the men were in the back sitting on a narrow wooden bench - along with a variety of locals who hitched rides along the way. Several stops en route for fuel - a gallon and a half at a time by jug from a barrel by the side of the road. We had to draw money before we were able to do anything else. No ATM here, we could only change NZ and US banknotes. It took the rest of the morning to visit customs, immigration and quarantine; all in different buildings. Lunch was in the dockside restaurant, a thatched hut with two long tables and a curtain at one end behind which was the kitchen. Huge plates of fish, rice and yam were put in front of us, with a bottle of lurid red drink - definitely food for the body not the soul.
On the way back we were able to buy a bit of fruit from roadside stalls - strings (like onions) of freshly picked mandarins, huge pamplamousse like we used to get in French Polynesia, and some green leaves wrapped in a banana leaf. And so back to the boat where we could take down the yellow quarantine flag, and hoist the home-made Vanuatu courtesy flag complete with hand embroidered motif in the centre - plenty of time on an ocean crossing!
June 9, 2009
Pegasus in Vanatu
The anchor is down in the wide bay of Port Resolution (named by Capt. Cook after his ship). Apart from Cat Coquette who has just arrived there are no other boats here. Just a few local men fishing in the bay from their home-made dugout canoes, with outriggers. A few simple looking thatched huts near the narrow beach, and a more substantial building called the Yacht Club where we will be going this afternoon to arrange transport over the mountains to the other side of the island to check in tomorrow morning. There is a small town there, Lenakel, with immigration facilities but no suitable anchorage.
A half hour of excitement on the way up the coast of the island when we hooked a huge marlin. G struggled to pull it in, and was nearly there when with a huge thrashing the fish unhooked itself. G was very disappointed but don't know how he would have got the at least 60kg fish onto the deck. It was a beautiful creature.
The live volcano is belching out steam not far away, with some fumeroles in the hillsides around the bay. Hope we can visit it while we are here.
A half hour of excitement on the way up the coast of the island when we hooked a huge marlin. G struggled to pull it in, and was nearly there when with a huge thrashing the fish unhooked itself. G was very disappointed but don't know how he would have got the at least 60kg fish onto the deck. It was a beautiful creature.
The live volcano is belching out steam not far away, with some fumeroles in the hillsides around the bay. Hope we can visit it while we are here.
Pegasus - day 7
Still making good progress. 12 knots of wind from the SE, and it is WARM. Shorts and T-shirt today. We are trying hard to catch a fish - or two - as we would be in a position to smoke one on arrival. Have all the lines out, but so far just one huge bite that took off with the lure. Cat Coquette caught a 10kg tuna this morning, so in any event we should get a fish dinner with them tomorrow night.
We have 105 miles to go, so depending on wind, should arrive tomorrow morning or early afternoon in Port Resolution on Tanna in Vanuatu.
We have 105 miles to go, so depending on wind, should arrive tomorrow morning or early afternoon in Port Resolution on Tanna in Vanuatu.
June 8, 2009
Pegasus - Day 6
It was a hard days sailing yesterday with wind hard on the nose, gusts 35 plus and quite a bit of rain. Motoring didn't help in those conditions. Then at 10pm there was a big squall with change of wind direction, and suddenly the front had passed us and we had a great sail all night with 15 - 20 knots from the west. It was interesting seeing the front on the radar; a long line of solid cloud stretching diagonally across the 24 mile screen; from the boat it looked like a wall.
As expected, this morning the wind has dropped right down so we are motoring now, and these conditions could last until we arrive as we are in a large high pressure zone. We were 45 miles off course last night, but are now converging and have 233 miles to go.
All is well on board, the wahoo was delicious cooked in butter with lemon juice from a fellow cruiser's mum's lemon tree. No real problems with the boat except that the water pump suddenly stopped working. Luckily we have another tap and pump which used to be a salt water pump, but G. had attached it to the fresh supply. Unfortunately the water from the hot water tank isn't accessible, and until the sea gets really calm it's difficult to get the the pump.
Position at 22.00 GMT 23 23.398 S and 169 45.741 E
As expected, this morning the wind has dropped right down so we are motoring now, and these conditions could last until we arrive as we are in a large high pressure zone. We were 45 miles off course last night, but are now converging and have 233 miles to go.
All is well on board, the wahoo was delicious cooked in butter with lemon juice from a fellow cruiser's mum's lemon tree. No real problems with the boat except that the water pump suddenly stopped working. Luckily we have another tap and pump which used to be a salt water pump, but G. had attached it to the fresh supply. Unfortunately the water from the hot water tank isn't accessible, and until the sea gets really calm it's difficult to get the the pump.
Position at 22.00 GMT 23 23.398 S and 169 45.741 E
June 7, 2009
Pegasus - day 5
Well, the good news is that a warm front is passing over and it is much warmer. Also we left a line out last night, and found a nearly dead wahoo on the end of it this morning. On the negative side though, the warm front is being squeezed by a cold front behind giving us winds up to 35 knots last night and this morning, on the nose. We are now some 15 miles off course, and G didn't get much sleep last night - he left me sleeping quite unaware of the situation. If it continues like this we may have to go to New Caledonia first. At least we are dry in our cockpit with its smart new cover - Cat Coquette were miserably wet when we spoke to them this morning.
June 5, 2009
Pegasus - day 4
Day 4 sees a slight change of destination. Still Vanuatu but we have decided to check in to the southernmost island of Villa, Port Resolution to be exact. We would be unlikely to go back south to it from Port Vila, and it has a live volcano to visit. Also a very traditional society which will be interesting.
For those who, like us, knew absolutely nothing about this group of islands before we started reading up -- it is now independent, but before the 1980's was administered jointly by the French and British. This 'Condominium' was known as the Pandemonium as there were two education systems, two police forces and two currencies. Presumably they drove on two sides of the road, but don't suppose there was too much traffic in those days. American forces were stationed there briefly during WW2; they arrived with huge amounts of equipment, and left much of it behind when they left. The inhabitants saw the 'big white birds', and also parachutes dropping supplies, and when they left as suddenly as they had come, many thought they had been sent by the gods. For many years there were 'Cargo Cults' who believed there would be a second coming; tins of Spam were reserved for special feasts.
We have made good progress over the last day, particularly through the night when we were flying 4 sails. We are now 40 miles ahead of Cat Coquette, so can only communicate through SSB. It is slowly getting warmer, and we have seen a few flying fish.
Position at 00.00GMT 26 55.215 S and 171 22.439 E 455 miles to go to our new destination.
For those who, like us, knew absolutely nothing about this group of islands before we started reading up -- it is now independent, but before the 1980's was administered jointly by the French and British. This 'Condominium' was known as the Pandemonium as there were two education systems, two police forces and two currencies. Presumably they drove on two sides of the road, but don't suppose there was too much traffic in those days. American forces were stationed there briefly during WW2; they arrived with huge amounts of equipment, and left much of it behind when they left. The inhabitants saw the 'big white birds', and also parachutes dropping supplies, and when they left as suddenly as they had come, many thought they had been sent by the gods. For many years there were 'Cargo Cults' who believed there would be a second coming; tins of Spam were reserved for special feasts.
We have made good progress over the last day, particularly through the night when we were flying 4 sails. We are now 40 miles ahead of Cat Coquette, so can only communicate through SSB. It is slowly getting warmer, and we have seen a few flying fish.
Position at 00.00GMT 26 55.215 S and 171 22.439 E 455 miles to go to our new destination.
Pegasus - day 3
A sunnier day today, and reasonable winds so we are rocking and rolling our way along. Have just had a lovely hot wash with more water on the floor than on the body, but where else can you watch albatrosses gliding low over the water from your bathroom? Our accompanying boat, the Danes on Cat Coquette, are a few miles behind us and still in VHF range which is nice. We sail faster than them, but are 'content' to potter along at 3 knots when the wind dies whereas they put their motor on and so catch up a bit.
Only one small tuna (back in the ocean) in the last couple of days. Brought a cooked joint of roast beef and a cooked chicken with us so we have eaten well anyway, but we are looking forward to a fish dinner soon.
You will remember that we towed a catamaran 200 miles or so into the Marquesas last year. Heard on the radio net last night that the same boat has the same problems again - ie rudder system completely disabled so no steering. As last year, they have no emergency rudder system to deploy. We said at the time that the boat really wasn't seaworthy for a long trip, and this time there are no boats nearbye, though they have made radio contact. They are 300 miles from NZ, and 800 or so from Fiji where they were headed.
Our position at 0200GMT is 29 01 S and 171 49 E Daily averages below the 150 miles we had hoped for, but we are a third of the way now.
Only one small tuna (back in the ocean) in the last couple of days. Brought a cooked joint of roast beef and a cooked chicken with us so we have eaten well anyway, but we are looking forward to a fish dinner soon.
You will remember that we towed a catamaran 200 miles or so into the Marquesas last year. Heard on the radio net last night that the same boat has the same problems again - ie rudder system completely disabled so no steering. As last year, they have no emergency rudder system to deploy. We said at the time that the boat really wasn't seaworthy for a long trip, and this time there are no boats nearbye, though they have made radio contact. They are 300 miles from NZ, and 800 or so from Fiji where they were headed.
Our position at 0200GMT is 29 01 S and 171 49 E Daily averages below the 150 miles we had hoped for, but we are a third of the way now.
June 4, 2009
Pegasus - day 2
Day two a little rougher as we go through a front, and the wind cannot make up its mind as to strength and direction so we are kept on our toes. Too rough to fish but we are being accompanied my albatrosses, pintado petrels (beautiful) and many other birds. Position as of 1400hs NZST, Thursday we are at 31.01.868S and 172.36.566E with 829 nm to go (1/4 of the way. Another Danish boat that left at the same time is within VHF range.
June 2, 2009
Pegasus on the way
After being landlubbers for so long, Pegasus is literally rolling along on her way to Port Vila, Vanauatu (previously New Hebrides). We left Opua at 11.45 Tuesday in calm wind but are now romping at 6-7 knots, poled out with the wind behind. Caught five fish but all skipjacks which we returned alive (very red meat - not v nice). So fish, fish everywhere but not a fish to eat. Position as of 0300H NZ standard time Wednesday (1500 GMT Tuesday) is latitude 34.02.098 and longitude 173.46.015. 1010Nm to go.
May 31, 2009
On the move again
After far too long sitting on the hard, then sitting in a marina fixing things, we have made it up to the Bay of Islands. A 3 day trip. Mostly not enough wind, but then plenty of blow and a horrible sea for the last bit, felt very queasy. Not used to it. Looks as though there is a good window for leaving on Tuesday (to Vanuatu), so that's the plan. There will be quite a group of us going as the weather has been pretty bad for the last month with fronts coming in with very little gap in between them. Have made a Vanuatu flag today, it requires a bit of embroidery for the motif in the middle, and G's been struggling with some satin stitch while I'm writing this! About an 8 day trip probably.
The boat behaved itself pretty well except for a bit of a leak in the engine bits that G hoped that he had fixed. As they don't make our model of engine any more it is very difficult to get some of the spare parts.
The boat behaved itself pretty well except for a bit of a leak in the engine bits that G hoped that he had fixed. As they don't make our model of engine any more it is very difficult to get some of the spare parts.
April 17, 2009
Tales from South Island
People say that the North Island is beautiful and the South Island 'Wow'. Not only 'wow' we found but incredibly empty - the total population of NZ is about half that of London, and a large proportion live in the Auckland area. So no traffic jams, no parking problems, and miles and miles of road without even a house in sight.
We've just returned from a few weeks of exploring mountains, glaciers, and fjords. The fertile plains in between are great fruit growing areas, and the late summer crops of apples, pears and grapes have been available at roadside stalls at good prices. Just in the last few days the kiwi fruit harvest has started too. Lots of fruit-picking jobs available. It is easy to eat well here, large green-lipped mussels often on the menu as well as local lamb and beef. Interestingly in the land of trout streams galore, trout may not be sold so you have to catch your own.
We have collected greenstone (NZ jade) pebbles from the beach, and some of the beautiful pau or abalone shells, but the chief hunter gatherer hasn't found much in the wild to eat on our travels - just a few blackberries and tiny wild apples.
Our travels took us from the ferry port of Picton to the Abel Tasman National Park where we walked for a day through tidal flats then coastal forest and bush with stops at golden beaches along the way. Then a couple of days near the Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers. It's not possible to get very close to either unless you join a guided group. Instead we took paths up the sides of the valleys that gave us good views down onto the ice. Ice which has a grubby look at the moment due to ash from the Australian bush fires. The well known Lake Matheson is in this area. It appears on postcards and tourist books everywhere because of its reflective surface which mirrors the snow-covered mountains behind. Important to be there at dawn before the breeze comes up - which we were - and we joined several camper vans in the car park who had stayed there overnight. One man was drinking a cup of coffee, and we told him that we were going to brew some tea (we have a little trangia in the car). He thought we had said that we were 'Bruce and T' so proceeded to introduce himself too. A good laugh all round.
Next stop was further south in the Fiordland area. Not only are several of the inlets called 'sounds' - which would mean that they are sunken and flooded river estuaries (which they are not, they are glacial); but the local spelling of fjord is fiord. Why not, and it's beautiful anyway. We took a boat trip on Milford Sound. The road leading there was an employment project during the depression, but a tunnel which linked the final part of the road wasn't finished until 1953. The tortuous route is often closed by rock falls and snow - in the winter check points are set up to ensure that vehicles have snow chains and know how to use them. Milford Sound is like a Norwegian Fjord. Very steep sided with very deep water. Lots of waterfalls and quite spectacular. The captain was quite happy to chat to people while he navigated close to the rocky cliffs to look at basking seals, birds and trees and shrubs; and as he was an experienced sailor we spent quite a lot of time with him. A visit to an underwater observatory was interesting - because of a comparatively shallow bar at the entrance to the sound, rain water (of which there is a huge amount in the region) tends to sit on top of the salt instead of being mixed by the tide. This diminishes the penetration of light, and corals and other growths that are normally found in very deep water here grow at fairly shallow areas so can be seen in the underwater area through large glass windows.
At this stage of our trip the weather took a turn for the worse, so we never did get a view of Mount Cook. We did go up the high Arthur's Pass, and found ourselves in newly fallen snow. Luckily the cloud was intermittent, and every now and then we got lovely views of the snowy peaks around. A day later, when we reached Christchurch, we had gorgeous sunshine again and a blue sky. Had a very pleasant day wandering around this city that was started by a group of worthies from Christchurch College Oxford plus various senior churchmen. They hoped (in 1849) to create a 'new Jerusalem', a middle class,Victorian community with high moral ideas. The first 300 settlers found life pretty hard, so survival took the place of high ideals, but they designed and made a lovely city.
At this stage Easter was upon us, and unknown to us we had arrived in a town where there was a biennial air show. Luckily we had booked our accommodation the day before as everything was full, and conversation in the communal kitchen of our motor camp was all about old WWI planes which were flying. We were not so organised the next night, and a jazz festival meant that we had to get well out of town to find a bed. Luck was on our side though, we found a quiet and peaceful camp by a river and with slopes of grape vines all around. Very run down and tatty, but clean and cheap. There was also a vintage Jaguar rally on somewhere as we kept passing some wonderful old E-types and even older cars.
We had wondered if we would meet up with anyone we knew on our travels, and twice bumped into familiar faces as we cooked our dinner in communal kitchens or BBQ places. And in Wellington we were able to stay with friends on board their boat.
Our old car has done pretty well so far ('old' in that it has a cassette player, and no CD slot). It decided to let us down just once when we had stopped in a remote picnic area near a lake. We were quickly plagued by sand flies so decided to move on, but the car had other ideas and there wasn't a peek from the battery. No jump leads (lesson learned!) and it's not possible to push an automatic car. So a parks employee mowing the grass radioed his base and got them to look up the phone number of the only mechanic within a 50 km radius. He drove over, started our car, and we followed him to base. One new battery and a large bill later and we were on our way again, well bitten round ankles and wrists by the pesky sandflies.
And so back to base. We have a sun awning being made, having decided that it was too big a job to do ourselves, and are busy painting and getting the teak work in the cockpit finished. Still lots to do, but we launch at the beginning of next month, and then need to get going before winter sets in. Then stand by for more adventures.
We've just returned from a few weeks of exploring mountains, glaciers, and fjords. The fertile plains in between are great fruit growing areas, and the late summer crops of apples, pears and grapes have been available at roadside stalls at good prices. Just in the last few days the kiwi fruit harvest has started too. Lots of fruit-picking jobs available. It is easy to eat well here, large green-lipped mussels often on the menu as well as local lamb and beef. Interestingly in the land of trout streams galore, trout may not be sold so you have to catch your own.
We have collected greenstone (NZ jade) pebbles from the beach, and some of the beautiful pau or abalone shells, but the chief hunter gatherer hasn't found much in the wild to eat on our travels - just a few blackberries and tiny wild apples.
Our travels took us from the ferry port of Picton to the Abel Tasman National Park where we walked for a day through tidal flats then coastal forest and bush with stops at golden beaches along the way. Then a couple of days near the Franz Joseph and Fox Glaciers. It's not possible to get very close to either unless you join a guided group. Instead we took paths up the sides of the valleys that gave us good views down onto the ice. Ice which has a grubby look at the moment due to ash from the Australian bush fires. The well known Lake Matheson is in this area. It appears on postcards and tourist books everywhere because of its reflective surface which mirrors the snow-covered mountains behind. Important to be there at dawn before the breeze comes up - which we were - and we joined several camper vans in the car park who had stayed there overnight. One man was drinking a cup of coffee, and we told him that we were going to brew some tea (we have a little trangia in the car). He thought we had said that we were 'Bruce and T' so proceeded to introduce himself too. A good laugh all round.
Next stop was further south in the Fiordland area. Not only are several of the inlets called 'sounds' - which would mean that they are sunken and flooded river estuaries (which they are not, they are glacial); but the local spelling of fjord is fiord. Why not, and it's beautiful anyway. We took a boat trip on Milford Sound. The road leading there was an employment project during the depression, but a tunnel which linked the final part of the road wasn't finished until 1953. The tortuous route is often closed by rock falls and snow - in the winter check points are set up to ensure that vehicles have snow chains and know how to use them. Milford Sound is like a Norwegian Fjord. Very steep sided with very deep water. Lots of waterfalls and quite spectacular. The captain was quite happy to chat to people while he navigated close to the rocky cliffs to look at basking seals, birds and trees and shrubs; and as he was an experienced sailor we spent quite a lot of time with him. A visit to an underwater observatory was interesting - because of a comparatively shallow bar at the entrance to the sound, rain water (of which there is a huge amount in the region) tends to sit on top of the salt instead of being mixed by the tide. This diminishes the penetration of light, and corals and other growths that are normally found in very deep water here grow at fairly shallow areas so can be seen in the underwater area through large glass windows.
At this stage of our trip the weather took a turn for the worse, so we never did get a view of Mount Cook. We did go up the high Arthur's Pass, and found ourselves in newly fallen snow. Luckily the cloud was intermittent, and every now and then we got lovely views of the snowy peaks around. A day later, when we reached Christchurch, we had gorgeous sunshine again and a blue sky. Had a very pleasant day wandering around this city that was started by a group of worthies from Christchurch College Oxford plus various senior churchmen. They hoped (in 1849) to create a 'new Jerusalem', a middle class,Victorian community with high moral ideas. The first 300 settlers found life pretty hard, so survival took the place of high ideals, but they designed and made a lovely city.
At this stage Easter was upon us, and unknown to us we had arrived in a town where there was a biennial air show. Luckily we had booked our accommodation the day before as everything was full, and conversation in the communal kitchen of our motor camp was all about old WWI planes which were flying. We were not so organised the next night, and a jazz festival meant that we had to get well out of town to find a bed. Luck was on our side though, we found a quiet and peaceful camp by a river and with slopes of grape vines all around. Very run down and tatty, but clean and cheap. There was also a vintage Jaguar rally on somewhere as we kept passing some wonderful old E-types and even older cars.
We had wondered if we would meet up with anyone we knew on our travels, and twice bumped into familiar faces as we cooked our dinner in communal kitchens or BBQ places. And in Wellington we were able to stay with friends on board their boat.
Our old car has done pretty well so far ('old' in that it has a cassette player, and no CD slot). It decided to let us down just once when we had stopped in a remote picnic area near a lake. We were quickly plagued by sand flies so decided to move on, but the car had other ideas and there wasn't a peek from the battery. No jump leads (lesson learned!) and it's not possible to push an automatic car. So a parks employee mowing the grass radioed his base and got them to look up the phone number of the only mechanic within a 50 km radius. He drove over, started our car, and we followed him to base. One new battery and a large bill later and we were on our way again, well bitten round ankles and wrists by the pesky sandflies.
And so back to base. We have a sun awning being made, having decided that it was too big a job to do ourselves, and are busy painting and getting the teak work in the cockpit finished. Still lots to do, but we launch at the beginning of next month, and then need to get going before winter sets in. Then stand by for more adventures.
April 6, 2009
South Island Pics
Sorry about the long time of no news.... Once on land the communication seems to break down. For a quick recap - Pegasus arrived in New Zealand in Nov. Clare and Felix came to visit for Christmas. Pegasus was hauled out and maintenance began. Crew flew to England for a month. Back in NZ, crew hopped in the car and went exploring:
Should be back on board soon should be in the water again soon, posts should get more regular again soon...
(Posted by Clare, having received pics by Skype !)
Should be back on board soon should be in the water again soon, posts should get more regular again soon...(Posted by Clare, having received pics by Skype !)
North Island
One thing leads to another when doing boat maintenance, so after a month in the UK we decided we had better go straight off to explore the country before becoming immersed again.
Having been told that there were excellent and reasonable places to stay with kitchens available we had decided to go by car rather than camper van, and this has proved to be the case. Every room has had at least a kettle and toaster with a sink, and good clean communal kitchens and bathrooms nearbye. We are very impressed with the facilities so far, clean, freshly decorated, and with friendly and helpful staff.
First stop was Rotorua, the heart of the geo-thermal area of the North Island. Our accommodation here had the additional amenities of natural hot pools, steam 'ovens' for cooking, walks through an area of bubbling mud, steaming vents and sulphury pools; and even warm ground for pitching tents (under-floor heating must be the ultimate in camping luxury!). In spite of this we decided to visit one of the thermal parks which had a wonderful variety of mineral pools in bright colours from scarlet to pea green and blue. Also a geyser which is persuaded to perform at a set time each day by pouring a (biodegradable we were told) sulficant to break the surface tension of the water below. A bit of a cheat, but the story was that the geyser was first seen to perform when some convicts at a nearbye prison were using the hot pool to do their laundry and the detergent set it off. A good story anyway. One thing we learned was that a 'geezer' is a household water heater (or an old codger I suppose) and a 'guyser' is what we had seen. Didn't know that before.
When C and F were here in January they hiked one of the 'Great Walks' of NZ, the Tongariro Crossing - managing to climb a couple of extra volcanoes en route as well as the pretty strenuous track. We gave it a go too, but decided to keep our options open (G. has a damaged foot) so left our car at one end so that we could go as far as we wished and return. (Usually a bus leaves you at one end and collects at the other.) We were certainly not alone on the trail, there must have been hundreds of people strung out along the path, probably a saturday wasn't the best day to choose. Anyway we made it to the highest point with wonderful views all around, then had the path nearly to ourselves on the way back. It was a gorgeous clear day, though with a bitingly cold wind; and the volcanic scenery is stunning.
Our final couple of days was spent in the limestone karst area in the west. An area of caves and over and underground streams; lots of trout fishing. The particular attraction for us were the glow worms that live in caves and rock overhangs. Not the same as the European glowworms evidently. These are the larval stage of the funus gnat. They stay at this stage for about 6 months during which time they attach themselves to the rock, and produce about thirty silk threads which hang down and have sticky blobs of mucus on them. Small insects which hatch from larva carried into the caves by water fly upwards towards the glittering lights overhead which they assume is the sky - and the glow worm gets a tasty dinner. We had a fascinating after-dark walk along a path in a rocky area with twinkling lights all around us.
Now on to the South Island so watch this space.
Having been told that there were excellent and reasonable places to stay with kitchens available we had decided to go by car rather than camper van, and this has proved to be the case. Every room has had at least a kettle and toaster with a sink, and good clean communal kitchens and bathrooms nearbye. We are very impressed with the facilities so far, clean, freshly decorated, and with friendly and helpful staff.
First stop was Rotorua, the heart of the geo-thermal area of the North Island. Our accommodation here had the additional amenities of natural hot pools, steam 'ovens' for cooking, walks through an area of bubbling mud, steaming vents and sulphury pools; and even warm ground for pitching tents (under-floor heating must be the ultimate in camping luxury!). In spite of this we decided to visit one of the thermal parks which had a wonderful variety of mineral pools in bright colours from scarlet to pea green and blue. Also a geyser which is persuaded to perform at a set time each day by pouring a (biodegradable we were told) sulficant to break the surface tension of the water below. A bit of a cheat, but the story was that the geyser was first seen to perform when some convicts at a nearbye prison were using the hot pool to do their laundry and the detergent set it off. A good story anyway. One thing we learned was that a 'geezer' is a household water heater (or an old codger I suppose) and a 'guyser' is what we had seen. Didn't know that before.
When C and F were here in January they hiked one of the 'Great Walks' of NZ, the Tongariro Crossing - managing to climb a couple of extra volcanoes en route as well as the pretty strenuous track. We gave it a go too, but decided to keep our options open (G. has a damaged foot) so left our car at one end so that we could go as far as we wished and return. (Usually a bus leaves you at one end and collects at the other.) We were certainly not alone on the trail, there must have been hundreds of people strung out along the path, probably a saturday wasn't the best day to choose. Anyway we made it to the highest point with wonderful views all around, then had the path nearly to ourselves on the way back. It was a gorgeous clear day, though with a bitingly cold wind; and the volcanic scenery is stunning.
Our final couple of days was spent in the limestone karst area in the west. An area of caves and over and underground streams; lots of trout fishing. The particular attraction for us were the glow worms that live in caves and rock overhangs. Not the same as the European glowworms evidently. These are the larval stage of the funus gnat. They stay at this stage for about 6 months during which time they attach themselves to the rock, and produce about thirty silk threads which hang down and have sticky blobs of mucus on them. Small insects which hatch from larva carried into the caves by water fly upwards towards the glittering lights overhead which they assume is the sky - and the glow worm gets a tasty dinner. We had a fascinating after-dark walk along a path in a rocky area with twinkling lights all around us.
Now on to the South Island so watch this space.
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