Rinca Island

We missed Tony Blair and family by a day. When we went to the Ranger station on Rinca island in the Komodo area we were told that they had been there the day before for an almost un-announced visit. Saw their names in the book above ours! Enjoyed our visit, hope they did. The rangers in this world heritage site are young school leavers who speak good English, ours was trying to save up to go to university in Bali. Armed with a long, stout forked stick he took us on a walk around and told us all about the Komodo dragons which live on a few islands here and nowhere else.

They are large monitor lizards, several meters long, and have some pretty nasty habits. Their saliva is toxic, so they can kill animals much large than they are by biting them and then waiting a few days until the animal dies. Evidently the BBC were here last year making a programme about venoms and it is due to be shown/has been shown this year. Animals like buffalo are bitten from the back while drinking at a water hole - their horns and hard skull are good protection otherwise. Smaller animals like monkeys and deer are eaten straight away, the dragons' mouth opens very wide like a snake's. They have long sharp claws and can run short distances and swim a bit. Not an animal to antagonise! There are 3 males to each female, so they fight to get the woman, a good way to ensure survival of the fittest. The female digs a hole in the soil to lay and bury her eggs, and the babies climb up trees after they hatch and stay there eating insects and gekkoes for a couple of years. The safest place to be as the males are likely to eat them if peckish - and adult dragons can't climb trees.

We did another walk with our lad Eric the next day, starting in the cool of the morning at 7am when there were fewer other visitors. No need for the big stick, all the dragons we saw were pretty sleepy and completely ignored us!

We have spent the last couple of days anchored off beaches on the same island. In the morning and late afternoons dragons come down to the beach to have a snooze and to walk along the sand. They have a very acute sense of smell using nostrils and forked tongue, and one huge brute could definitely smell my frying onions, he even walked to the edge of the water and his snake-like tongue was 'feeling the air'. He decided not to swim over to investigate thank goodness. A troop of monkeys, a family of wild boar, and a couple of large brown deer were also taking their daily exercise.

This all makes a nice change from villages and people, friendly and interesting though they may be. Hardly anyone lives on these dry mountainous islands, and they are surrounded by rip tides rushing between them, not easy in a paddled canoe. The sea is crystal clear and snorkelling really good. Where we are at the moment we can swim to the reef from the boat. The corals are beautiful and there are clouds of small fish everywhere. Note the 'small', there just aren't any big fish. We caught a small tuna the other day, the first edible fish we have caught.

Riung

Actually managed to sail about half the way here, and of course today the wind has come up and we are not going anywhere! We were warned that it is more motor Indonesia than sail Indonesia, and that is certainly true. Most days it is possible to sail a bit with the land breeze in the early morning then the sea breeze in the early afternoon. In between there is usually no wind at all. Which makes for a nice calm sea but a lot of chugging. The fish tally is zero, we have been quite unable to buy chicken (except a live one, but even then not sure if it is for laying eggs or for eating!) so have had to resort to a tin of beef stew one night, bacon omelette another. Today we hope to eat out, but it is Independence Day so don't know what will be open.

We are anchored in a very pretty spot off the small town of Riung. There are several small islands around us where diving and snorkelling are supposed to be very good. One has a colony of fruit bats which flew over us yesterday evening (they eat mosquitoes which is good news). It is mainly a fishing town, and colourful wooden fishing boats are tied up along the long wooden jetty that stretches out over the mangrove shallows to deeper water. The houses closest to shore are built high on wooden stilts, and are presumably surrounded by water at high tide.

While G was changing the engine oil today I rowed over to the jetty and walked up the road to try and find some fruit and veg. The road was very quiet as most people were on the parade ground in their best clothes listening to speeches and singing various anthems and patriotic songs. The road is decorated with long flags of various colours attached to bamboo poles which sway in the breeze. Managed to find some bananas, a few tomatoes, a small cabbage, some carrots and a couple of drinking coconuts. Market day is Monday evidently (today is Wednesday).

Sea World Resort and Keli Mutu

We are gradually making our way westwards along the north coast of the long island of Flores, and spent a few nights anchored off the very low key Sea World Resort. It is run by a German priest and consists of a dozen wooden cabins with terraces onto the beach, a bar and a restaurant. All very clean and efficient as you would expect. On Saturday night there was a beach BBQ with fish kebabs cooked on a wood fire on the beach, and an excellent buffet. Best meal so far. The place also got high marks from us as there were taps everywhere for washing sand off feet and watering the plants. Not drinking water, but we could fill up jerry cans very easily to use for washing.

A couple of dinghies ran into trouble heading back to their boats from the beach in the dark as a fishing net had been put out between beach and boats and they ran straight into it. Large sums were demanded for a new net, and much negotiation took place. We were all quite sure that the net had been put there for the purpose, it was extremely unlikely they would catch any fish in that narrow strip of water. Nets are always a hazard, one boat ran into one yesterday out at sea; the floats were made of cut up bits of flip flops so were nearly invisible!

One of the must-visit places on Flores is Keli Mutu; three volcanic crater lakes close to each other and different colours. As clouds descend on the peaks during the morning and stay there most of the day it's important to arrive early so we arranged a car with driver for 5 of us, and set off at 4.30am. The first hour was dark so we just hoped that we had a good driver on the very winding road. As dawn cam up motor bike traffic increased, and dogs, goats and cows were wandering around. The locals were wrapped in their ikat blankets in the cool air.

For us, the journey up into the mountains was more interesting and worthwhile than the craters. There were hillsides of paddy fields, each small terrace surrounded by mud walls; water for the fields ran in concrete channels down the side of the road, and was used for laundry by the women, with the bushes covered with clothes drying in the sun. Pigs (mostly the small Vietnamese type) had made comfortable mud pools to keep themselves cool, definitely happy pigs. Cocoa seeds, betel nut and coconut were laid out to dry along the edge of the tarmac.

The craters can be visited via a path from the car parking area. Our old Lonely Planet Guide says that you can walk around the edge of a couple of them, but things are much stricter now, and officials with loud hailers call to anyone leaving the official route. The water changes colour from time to time, at the moment there is one bright turquoise, one a greeny turquoise and one a dark blackish green. In the past they have been red, blue, or cafe au lait. All due to the minerals welling up in them. They are an important religious and cultural site for the local people, and many myths about them. We were lucky that we were there on the day when the local elders process up the path to bless the lakes. It only happens every few years, and a large group of elderly men dressed in their traditional finery was assembling when we came down, and music with drums and metal gongs was playing.

Flores Island, Gedong

We have reach Flores, a long, narrow island, and at last we have found a little traditional village that is clean, neat, and delightful. We are anchored in a small bay very close to the rocky shore.  These volcanic islands drop straight into the depths of the sea. so in the centre of the bay we were in more than 200 m.  A couple of boats put stern lines out to the cliffs on one side, but we had a rocky beach behind so thought we had enough depth if we swung. Children paddled canoes or swam out to see us when we arrived, hoping for pens and exercise books (though they don't pester and always say thank you).  The men come hoping to sell bananas and drinking coconuts and asking for fishing lures.

On shore wooden dug-out canoes and larger boats designed to take a motor are being built.  No road access at all, so a motor boat with a chugging diesel engine is used for all communication.  Not even a mobile phone mast here, though most villages of any size do have one these days.  The village was up a steep track, past a suprisingly large school where all the children rushed to doors and windows as we passed to shout 'hello mister'.  The houses are wooden with thatched roofs, and little patches of cultivated ground for banana, papaya and a few vegetables.  All neatly fenced as protection from the pigs and chickens.

How we wish we could speak a bit more Bahasa Indonesia, the national language (a second language for most people)  We can manage the basic good morning, how much, good, thank you etc. and it is a very simple language (eg breakfast is eat morning, lunch is eat midday).  We asked for water and had taken a small jerry can with us, and while it filled a group of women were chatting and laughing around us.  The water seems to be piped from the mountain behind, and looks good though we only use it for washing clothes and ourselves, keeping the Aussie tank water for cooking washing up and drinking.

On the way to the village from our last anchorage we anchored off a reef for a couple of hours to snorkel.  The water was incredibly clear, in the high sunlight you could see the bottom 15m below the boat.  The coral was beautiful, lots of different types of soft corals, sponges, and feathery worms.  Very very few fish though, and the ones there were were of home aquarium size.  This whole area is very fished out - the markets are selling fish that we would normally put back in the water.  Not that we have caught anything at all recently - and were very happy to be invited to dinner on another boat as they had managed to hook a mahi mahi and a large wahoo on one day.  The only two fish we have heard of anyone catching around here.

In fact this rally is not an epicurian feast!  We have eaten out in the small towns we have been in, and have had various 'gala dinners' of welcome, but it is very rice based, and any fish or chicken is very over-cooked.  Vegetables are quite good, so it is a good place for vegetarians.  On board we still have a vacuum packed ham, but will soon be eating tins of tuna, stew and bully beef if no fish appear.

Balurin

A long day trip yesterday, no wind so 11hrs motoring. Wanted to find an anchorage with swimming and snorkelling and no town. (and away from dozens of other boats, only 3 of us here) Are in a lovely spot with a gently smoking volcano at one side. Small village but not very close. We were straight in the water when we arrived, no crocs, no stingers, and lovely temperature. Look forward to doing some snorkelling.

That is the plus side, on the other side our inverter packed up yesterday, and we have a new portable one (the sort to charge phone and computer in the car) but that stopped working too, and then the battery monitor went on strike. This morning G. got monitor working, and the portable inverter too, but it's not really powerful enough for charging and using computer (which we do en route to navigate with electronic charts).

So if you don't hear from us for a while that is the reason. We are in company with other boats so our whereabouts is known!

No fish, not even a nibble, but we did see a whale yesterday, spouting spectacularly for us.

ALOR (Kalabahi town) 3rd August

We left Kupang (East Timor) on Sunday for an overnight sail (140 miles) to Alor and the town of Kalabahi. Not much wind as we had been warned, so too much motoring for our liking. And no fish, just a large baracuda. We sailed when we could, so were well behind many other boats who started their engines as soon as their speed was less than 5 knots. Not a good idea in this case as they arrived at the inlet leading to Kalabahi as the tide was pouring out, and could hardly make headway. By the time we arrived it was slack water and then we had the flow with us so were doing 8.5 knots at one point and we all arrived within an hour of each other.

It is a pretty anchorage with the small town nestling below steep volcanic hills, and like Kupang, slightly smoky and misty which makes for wonderful sunsets and sunrises. It is a much cleaner place than Kupang though (or they had a special clean-up for our arrival). We were greeted by children in wooden outrigger canoes who have a few phrases of English, but get quite stumped when we answer them. This morning they were doing the rounds at 6am shouting their "hello, how are you" to the fleet who, if still asleep, wouldn't be much longer! Ramadan started on 1st Aug, so there are extra long calls to prayer from the mosque at 5am - luckily not very close to shore.

Managed to get some diesel yesterday ('solar'). Our jerry cans and those of 3 other boats were thrown into the back of an ancient pick-up, the men folk climbed in, and us two ladies sat up front with the blaring music. It was a good way to see a bit of the sprawling town. Bits of productive garden around each house with vegetables growing, and chickens and pigs roaming around. Lots of fruit trees - bananas, papaya and mango, the latter not quite ready yet. Went to a proper filling station, paid for the fuel, and then just paid our driver and assistant for their efforts. 35p a litre in this part of the world.

Also got a jerry can of water to use for washing - straight from a well with a bucket to lower down. It's slightly brackish, and not suitable for the water tank. Unfortunately our water maker is out of action, mainly because we haven't needed to use it for 3 years, so various replacement parts are needed. Still we left Darwin with all containers full of good water, and can buy drinking water and get washing water quite easily.

Before leaving Kupang we had a load of laundry done by a local lady, and it smells so powerfully of fabric conditioner that we have had to rinse it all again. It would have been better to have got it done here where they wash in a local stream and spread everything out over the bushes to dry.

Only 12 boats here the day we arrived, but yesterday many more came in so we are now about 35, too many for our liking, and we are looking forward to moving on to less frequented spots. The official activities start tomorrow with a welcoming ceremony in the morning and a dinner in the evening, but it is all very vague, and we heard some music and announcements in English booming out late yesterday afternoon when most people were back on their boats. We were told to put away out watches in Indonesia as time really doesn't mean anything!

We were looking for a chicken to buy on the market yesterday, having seen plenty in Kupang. Our 'guide', a teenager who wanted to practise his English was doubtful we would find one. When we returned to the dinghy we asked a tour guide who was hovering hopefully. He asked if we wanted a live one, and when I said that I would prefer it dead and ready to cook he said that we should just buy a live one and get it prepared - he could organise it of course. Later we heard that if we hunt down a Chinese grocery they will probably have frozen ones. And in the meantime we found a simple but clean restaurant and had nasi goreng, much less effort!

Kupang, 29th July 2011 - first impressions

Friday today, so the holy day in this mostly Muslim part of Indonesia. We have slept through the 5am call to prayer the last couple of days, but this morning it went on much longer. Much more tuneful than the rather harsh wailing we became used to in Oman, but a bit early nevertheless. So out on deck with a cup of tea at first light to watch mist and smoke rising off the land, the roar of scooters on the streets and a background of chickens waking up. No dogs barking (Islamic country) which seems strange as this is usually a part of the morning sound of similar places we have visited.

We arrived in the early hours of Wednesday, and had to stay on board until our boat had been inspected - as you can imagine most boats arrived within 24 hrs of each other, so 75 plus boats to be checked in. Eventually though two smiling officials came on board; and started to fill in and stamp with their stamps and ours, lots of bits of paper. They both wanted to inspect the boat, but really seemed most interested in where we kept our alcohol - and dropped many hints about maybe acquiring a bottle. (No sir, you have a job to do that doesn't involve presents).

Then yellow Quarantine flag down, red and white Indonesian one up, and we were ready to go ashore. A team of young lads were on the beach and paddled out to catch the dinghy then carried it up to be parked with rows of others. A wizened little man, with very few teeth and a mouth stained red with betel, had the job of taking the daily fee for carriage and storage.

The town is very dirty, rubbish everywhere. There are stories that bags of rubbish taken in by cruisers and given, as instructed, to the boat boys, are just thrown into the sea. The pavements are full of holes - slabs missing and just a large gap down to the drainage flowing below. The roads have a never ending stream of scooters and 'bemos' (communal taxis) hooting, playing loud music, and weaving in and out of people and other traffic. And having said all that there is a great atmosphere, cheerful friendly people, nobody loitering or drunk. There are streets of little shops selling a bit of everything - you could probably find almost anything you wanted but would have to search for a while.

I managed to lose my sunglasses overboard and didn't think I had a hope of finding more Polaroids, but am now looking very flashy in some wrap-arounds with a mirrored top strip!

We walked to the local market, narrow alleys, either dusty underfoot or muddy in the fish market where water is thrown over to keep the fish fresh. The Indonesians are a short race, and the strings fixing one stall to another were about forehead height for G to the great amusement of the stall holders.

There were 2 gala dinners given for the fleet, one by the governor and one by the mayor. Evidently a bit of competition to outdo each other! Both had traditional dancing and local music, a buffet dinner, and then a group playing western music for us to dance to. So two good evenings, and no need to cook on board. In fact we have eaten out every day since arriving. Rice with everything, and some unidentifiable meat - could be dog - but the vegetables are good.

Pegasus in Indonesia

   We finally got the anchor down at 2am (Wed), and are now waiting for customs and immigration to come on board.  They are with the boats next to us so hopefully we will be next.  When they have cleared us we have to go ashore for immigration,quarantine, and port clearance.  Lots and lots of form filling and paper work - our cruising permits issued before we left had stamps from 4 different people.  We may, or may not, be given a 'ratting certificate'  That would be something to hang on the wall!

  Not too much of a problem coming in in the dark, though fishing boats are either lit with a dazzling array of white lights, or with flashing green or red or white or nothing at all.  Luckily they mainly come and go at dawn and dusk.  Lots of fish farms to avoid though we had waypoints and info from a boat that had come in during the day.