Friday today, so the holy day in this mostly Muslim part of Indonesia. We have slept through the 5am call to prayer the last couple of days, but this morning it went on much longer. Much more tuneful than the rather harsh wailing we became used to in Oman, but a bit early nevertheless. So out on deck with a cup of tea at first light to watch mist and smoke rising off the land, the roar of scooters on the streets and a background of chickens waking up. No dogs barking (Islamic country) which seems strange as this is usually a part of the morning sound of similar places we have visited.
We arrived in the early hours of Wednesday, and had to stay on board until our boat had been inspected - as you can imagine most boats arrived within 24 hrs of each other, so 75 plus boats to be checked in. Eventually though two smiling officials came on board; and started to fill in and stamp with their stamps and ours, lots of bits of paper. They both wanted to inspect the boat, but really seemed most interested in where we kept our alcohol - and dropped many hints about maybe acquiring a bottle. (No sir, you have a job to do that doesn't involve presents).
Then yellow Quarantine flag down, red and white Indonesian one up, and we were ready to go ashore. A team of young lads were on the beach and paddled out to catch the dinghy then carried it up to be parked with rows of others. A wizened little man, with very few teeth and a mouth stained red with betel, had the job of taking the daily fee for carriage and storage.
The town is very dirty, rubbish everywhere. There are stories that bags of rubbish taken in by cruisers and given, as instructed, to the boat boys, are just thrown into the sea. The pavements are full of holes - slabs missing and just a large gap down to the drainage flowing below. The roads have a never ending stream of scooters and 'bemos' (communal taxis) hooting, playing loud music, and weaving in and out of people and other traffic. And having said all that there is a great atmosphere, cheerful friendly people, nobody loitering or drunk. There are streets of little shops selling a bit of everything - you could probably find almost anything you wanted but would have to search for a while.
I managed to lose my sunglasses overboard and didn't think I had a hope of finding more Polaroids, but am now looking very flashy in some wrap-arounds with a mirrored top strip!
We walked to the local market, narrow alleys, either dusty underfoot or muddy in the fish market where water is thrown over to keep the fish fresh. The Indonesians are a short race, and the strings fixing one stall to another were about forehead height for G to the great amusement of the stall holders.
There were 2 gala dinners given for the fleet, one by the governor and one by the mayor. Evidently a bit of competition to outdo each other! Both had traditional dancing and local music, a buffet dinner, and then a group playing western music for us to dance to. So two good evenings, and no need to cook on board. In fact we have eaten out every day since arriving. Rice with everything, and some unidentifiable meat - could be dog - but the vegetables are good.
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