Galapagos

Things are working out for us at last in the Galapagos.  We didn't like San Cristobal very much, very touristy, rolly anchorage, had to use water taxis to get to land, and a limited amount of things to see.  So chatted to a lot of people the day we were there, and decided not to check in but to do an overnight trip to Isabella, one of the other islands that make up the group.  We weren't sure what the reception would be as it isn't an official checking in place, but we decided that they would have to give us 48 hrs as an emergency stop (there is always a technical problem we can produce!).
  So we arrived at 9am in a calm and pretty anchorage with black lumps of volcanic rock providing shelter and also a resting place for lots of birds.  At anchor there was a boat that we last saw in Guadaloupe a couple of years ago, a very nice South African couple.  They took us to shore in their dinghy to show us the way - a roundabout route through the rocks and shallows past groups of blue-footed boobies, penguins, sea lions basking on anchored fishing boats, and rays and the occasional turtle in the water.  Absolutely wonderful.  Went to see the Port Captain who said he was sure he could arrange a two week stay for us, but it would cost us an agent's fee as our papers would have to go to one of the checking in ports.  Also he would have to note down an 'emergency' reason for staying.  We mentioned a regulator problem (true) and I think he also noted down that we had water in the boat!  Anyway he said he would have to come aboard to check it out.  Once aboard he just sat down to chat, and accepted a coca cola - the visit a formality and he said he hadn't a clue about technical things anyway.
  Don't know when our papers will come back, but we are legal anyway, and in as nice a spot as we could imagine.  Two major currents - the Humbolt and La Nina - one cold and one warm, meet around these islands, and it is these that bring nutrients and the climate for such a wide range of wild life.  Of course over the centuries various visitors have depleted the wildlife - tortoises were considered an excellent fresh food store, and were kept in the holds of ships.  Also domestic animals were introduced which also caused chaos among the indigenous species.  At the moment the water in the anchorage is chilly, so early mornings and at sunset there's a misty layer over the water and a watery weedy smell, quite strange.
  The island is very quiet, a population of 2000 in this little settlement.  Just sand roads and hardly any traffic.  UNESCO and the USA have built jetties and a couple of board walks.  One through the mangroves to a swimming area, very popular with the local children, and the other through bush and wetland to a tortoise breeding station.  We went there briefly the first day, but it was hot and we were quite tired so plan to return another time.
 So far the best thing has just been the fact that we are surrounded by wildlife.  The blue-footed boobies, with sky blue feet, are on every rock.  Little Galapagos penguins mix with them and are always seen swimming in the water, and sea lions pop their heads up to see what we are up to.  When walking down the road or along the beach there are iguanas everywhere, and bright red crabs.
  We really miss the BBC short wave transmissions, now haven't a clue what is going on in the world.  We need to see if we can find  Voice of America or the Dutch world service in English.

Arrived Galapagos

We arrived yesterday just before dark after a day of reasonable speed so no motoring until we started entering the harbour.  Position 00 53 S and 89 36 W.  Had a chat to some people we know yesterday evening, and decided that our best bet would be to continue to Isla Isabella which is much less developed, and where we can still see the wildlife that is the reason we came.  So this afternoon will leave for an overnight trip there.  Probably will only be able to stay for 72 hrs, but should be able to do quite a bit in that time.  This is a pretty but very touristy little town, full of souvenir shops and places advertising tours.

  The harbour is full of sea lions, and they are quite a problem for boats with low swimming platforms at the back.  Friends on one catamaran have had to put barbed wire all over the back of their boat.  Their first night the sea lions climbed up and a group of them had a party in the cockpit - on the cushions.  Noise, mess, and smell.  Great fun to watch them on the rocks and around the jetty, but you wouldn't want them on your own property!  The small fishing boats have boards with large nails pointing up that they put in position when leaving their boats.  

24 miles to go

This has been the slowest calmest passage we have ever had.  Almost like being at anchor.  Got quite excited this morning when the wind picked up to 10 knots, but it was only for a short while.  Plenty of time to enjoy the reflection of a full moon on a smooth smooth sea, and we can even focus the binoculars on passing birds.  Have decided that the small birds skimming the surface are wedge-rumped storm petrels, (there's a bit of info to store for the next pub quiz night!).

  Only 24 miles to go, so we should arrive this afternoon.  Are really keeping fingers crossed that we will be given a 10 day stay and not the 'emergency stop' of 72 hrs.  It is completely up to the Port Captain, so hope he's in a good mood and that we can put forward a good case all in Spanish for his benefit.

  Present position 01 03 S and 89 17 W and we are heading for Wreck Bay on the island of San Cristobal.  Don't know what sort of detail Google Earth gives you.

123 miles to go

We are drifting with the current at the moment, helped by a couple of knots of wind.  Tired of motoring, and we're doing 3 knots so it could be worse.  Every now and then we have to motor as the battery gets low, and it's good to have a bit of speed for an hour or so.  What is that poem about a painted ship upon a painted ocean?  That's us, the sea is shiny calm, with big well spaced swells.
We've been trying to identify the (few) birds around - masked boobies and wedge-rumped storm petrels we think.  Full moon at night which is great.

Position wed 19th

After a very gentle night, then a complete wind change as rain arrived, we are now going along nicely on a reach.  Doing a good 5 kts.  Position at 4.30GMT is 02 04 S and 82 56 W

For once not fishing as we have bought some land food, having been eating fish for the last week!  Have a glut of lovely tropical fruit bought in Puerto Lucia which is ripening rather fast.  Soon it will be bananas, bananas, bananas and oranges!

Goodbye Ecuador

We left this morning for Galapagos, not sorry to see the back of mainland Ecuador, having had 5 days of hassle there.  If they don't now let us in to the G. (which they may not,) we will really be kicking ourselves for making the detour.

  Anyway, position at 18.45 GMT is 02 13 S and 81 22 W

An Ecuadorial Saga

It took us five nights to get to Ecuador, with good wind for much of the time.  Captain Geoff, ever the sailor, kept his first mate busy with sail changes to make the most of the breeze.  We managed to miss most of the doldrums where many boats not only have no wind but have current against them as well, and after a busy night avoiding fishing boats which were blobs on the radar but had no lights at all, arrived in Puerto Lucia near Salinas with a nice tuna and a mahi mahi in the frig that we had caught on the way..

W are  two degrees south of the Equator, so pretty hot and humid.  A very small marina  and we were met by a launch who guided us in to an anchoring place. In the office lots of forms were filled in, and we were told that officialdom would visit the next day.  Next day another office girl takes all our information all over again, plus requiring way point and time when we crossed into Ecuadorian waters, and way point of our last anchorage in Panama.  When leaving we will have to give  a similar point and time which can hardly be accurate in a sailing boat.  The trouble is that we have to go through the formalities required of large ships entering and leaving the country.  We were not pleased, having arrived on a Thursday, to be told that we had to pay overtime for checking in as the money had not been paid until Saturday - the office take it to the Port Captain where the receipt requires five signatures.  And we have to pay overtime again for checking out as the girl in the office doesn't work every day so had to do all the paperwork on a Sunday to enable us to leave by Tuesday.  All very expensive, and the marina fees  are well out of line with general costs in the country - we stayed in New York more cheaply!

On thing that is very cheap here is diesel.  At $1 per gallon it is heavily subsidized, and in order to buy it we have to get special permission as foreigners.  One boat, nearly out of fuel, was told today that he couldn't buy any because he had only been here for two days.  The rules are made up as they go along.  As I write, Geoff has gone off to see if we have our permission granted to top up the tanks.  (Yes, we got fuel, and also managed to fill lots of cans of diesel for the boat that wasn't allowed to buy any).

The big question seems to be whether or not we will be allowed to stop in the Galapagos after leaving here.  The group of islands belongs to Ecuador, but for some reason it's not possible to get permission to go there from here.  We have heard many stories, of people only able to stay for 3 days if they prove they have mechanical problems on their boat, and others  who were able to stay for two weeks.  We are definitely wondering why we decided to come to the mainland at all - there is nothing but very scruffy newish development along the coast here.  Some people take trips into the mountains for a week or so, but having seen quite a lot of Andean scenery when in Colombia, this wasn't a priority for us. 

So tomorrow morning we leave for Galapagos with our fingers crossed.

Arrived in Ecuador

Arrived late afternoon yesterday, and have enjoyed a proper night's sleep though it's surprising how you get used to a 3 hr sleep at a time routine.  After about 30 hrs motoring we were able to sail for the last few hours which was nice.  Our 'buddy boat' is more than 24 hrs behind us, having had more problems than us with currents (and not being as enthusiastic at tweaking and changing sails as our Capt.)  Have been able to keep in radio contact twice a day though which was good.

Having had instructions to email boat details and time of arrival to the authorities here, with a copy to the marina, they didn't know a thing about us when we arrived.  We were also told to call on the radio as soon as we were in range and there was no reply.  We're back in that sort of part of the world, lots of rules and regulations and no follow up.  Anyway they saw us coming in and sent a launch out to guide us to an anchoring spot, and were very friendly.  The authorities will come this morning (so they say, though talking to another boat last night it took them a couple of days to check in and they weren't allowed outside the marina perimeter!)

Meanwhile Geoff is changing the engine oil before breakfast, ie before the sun gets high, it's a hot part of the world.

More about Salinas when we get out and about, looks as though we'll be able to go for a spin on the bikes.

Pegasus reporting Thursday 13th at 15:30 GMT

Hi Folks,
We are 30 miles out from Salinas motoring - heaven forbid - against 10 knot head winds.  We should get in later today. Position 01deg 44min S, 080deg 57min W.  And the fridge is full with Mahi Mahi and Tuna. The southern ocean has come up trumps.  We crossed the Equator at about noon yesterday, with Geoff at the time down in the engine room trying to diagnose a rattle but we celebrated with fresh fish and a little glass of Chateau Carton for lunch.
Love to all, J and G 

Pegasus calling 12:30gmt Wenesday 12 March

Hi Folks,
Current position is 00deg 19min N, 080deg 36min W.  And yes King Neptune has promised to visit us in about three hours but he regrets no party as we have crossed the equator before. (Wot no party, what do you think I came all this way for? Mum)
After various emails and talking on the cruisers net we have changed destination.  In Bahia Caraquez we would have had to have a pilot to get us in (and out) at a cost, and then have to make a 2 hr taxi ride to the nearest immigration office.  So instead are going another 100 miles further south to Salinas which has easy entry and better access to supplies.  Not sure that we can anchor there, so may have the luxury of a marina for a few nights.  From there it's no further to the Galapagos, and usually the currents are more advantageous.
Love to all, J and G

Tuesdays Position

Hello everyone,  the doldrums haven't found us yet, and we continue to sail even though we've slowed down.  Position 02 19N, 80 49W.   We hope to get in tomorrow evening, but still have 174 miles to go.  Still NO FISH - shall we have to sink to tinned tuna on our baked spud tonight?  

Pegasus reporting 1300 GMT, Monday

Much to our surprise, as we are entering the "doldrums" (Inter continental Convergence Zone (ICCZ)) we still have a northerly wind taking us along between 4 and 6 knots at the moment.  Current posn: 04deg 48min N, 080deg 32min W. 330nM to go to Bahia Caraquez in Equidor. Poled out we are taking an accompanying yacht to the cleaners.

But he caught a 30 lb Mahi Mahi while we are forced to eat bully beef!

Panama Canal and Beyond

By 6pm on Tues 26th Feb we were all ready to go. The sides hung with old car tires covered in bin bags as fenders, as normal ones can pop if you are unlucky enough to be thrown against the lock walls or another boat. On board we had our 3 extra line handlers, a NZ couple and an American. All experienced sailors, Doug the American has a captain's licence. This proved to be a good move - one other boat had friends on board who didn't know how to put a line round a cleat or tie a knot which caused problems. Then our pilot/advisor Victor came aboard. He was responsible for telling us where to go and what to do, but did not drive the boat or handle lines. He said that our transit was delayed so we might as well stay at anchor for a while - a good time to eat dinner without distraction.

Eventually we moved off towards the Gatun locks, but then more delays and we had to 'hover' for another couple of hours. Finally we rafted up with two other sailing boats, and moved together into the first lock. The advisor on the middle boat takes charge of the raft at this stage. Line handlers on the lock walls then throw light lines with a 'monkey fist' on the end for us to tie to our heavy mooring lines. They are very expert at this, and we saw a large target like an archery target which they use for practice. Our lines were hauled in and attached to bollards, the huge hydraulic gates closed behind us, and very quickly the water level started to rise. Water enters the lock through large holes in the floor so it comes bubbling up and is pretty turbulent.

About 20 minutes later we were up, the gates ahead of us opened, and we motored into the next lock with the handlers on the wall walking with the lines. We had a ship in the lock ahead of us, and it was towed from lock to lock by powerful 'mules' on rails. The process was repeated through all three of the Gatun locks, raising us 85ft altogether. Then we were out in Gatun Lake which is a man made freshwater lake supplying water for the Canal. By this time it was 3am, and we tied up to large mooring buoys in the lake, the advisor was taken off, and the rest of us went straight to bed for a rather short night's sleep.

We were woken at 6am by howler monkeys on the wooded islands nearbye, so Geoff and I got up and scrubbed the decks down while we had nice clean fresh water - Colon is a dirty place, oily harbour water and smoke and dust in the air. At 6.30 our new advisor, Harold, came aboard. It is a very pleasant 31 mile trip over the lake to the next locks, so we were able to relax and enjoy the scenery. Lots of little islands to begin with, then the narrow Galiot cut, made at the cost of many lives. It is now being widened to take the extra traffic which will be using it when the new larger locks are completed in a few years time. We saw crocodiles basking on the mud at the edges, oblivious to the earth moving vehicles working near them.

Once again we rafted up to enter the Pedro Miguel Lock, this time with a less efficient advisor on the middle boat so there was some confusion about instructions and problems staying parallel to the lock walls. With a French crew on the middle boat, and a Cuban American on the far one, there was a lot of shouting and arm waving and total mayhem! We also had to wait for a while for a couple of tourist launches which were late arriving. Just the one lock, then a small lake to cross (there is a fault in the ground in this area and it wasn't possible to build a continuous line of locks). Finally into the Miraflores locks. Miraflores has a large visitors centre so we had a big audience. It also has a continuous webcam so that it is possible to watch the progress of shipping on the internet. Unfortunately the cameras caught us entering the lock, then swung away, disappointing for family and friends who had hoped to catch a glimpse.


Miraflores has two connecting chambers, then the gates open onto the Pacific with a view of the Bridge of the American ahead ("a bit like a mini Sydney Harbour bridge" was the comment). We had made it with boat and crew intact! Our valient extra crew were put ashore at the Balboa Yacht Club along with tyres and lines, where a pre-arranged taxi was waiting to return them to Colon. We picked up a mooring, and, exhausted, had the best cold beer we'd tasted for a while.