Galapagos

Things are working out for us at last in the Galapagos.  We didn't like San Cristobal very much, very touristy, rolly anchorage, had to use water taxis to get to land, and a limited amount of things to see.  So chatted to a lot of people the day we were there, and decided not to check in but to do an overnight trip to Isabella, one of the other islands that make up the group.  We weren't sure what the reception would be as it isn't an official checking in place, but we decided that they would have to give us 48 hrs as an emergency stop (there is always a technical problem we can produce!).
  So we arrived at 9am in a calm and pretty anchorage with black lumps of volcanic rock providing shelter and also a resting place for lots of birds.  At anchor there was a boat that we last saw in Guadaloupe a couple of years ago, a very nice South African couple.  They took us to shore in their dinghy to show us the way - a roundabout route through the rocks and shallows past groups of blue-footed boobies, penguins, sea lions basking on anchored fishing boats, and rays and the occasional turtle in the water.  Absolutely wonderful.  Went to see the Port Captain who said he was sure he could arrange a two week stay for us, but it would cost us an agent's fee as our papers would have to go to one of the checking in ports.  Also he would have to note down an 'emergency' reason for staying.  We mentioned a regulator problem (true) and I think he also noted down that we had water in the boat!  Anyway he said he would have to come aboard to check it out.  Once aboard he just sat down to chat, and accepted a coca cola - the visit a formality and he said he hadn't a clue about technical things anyway.
  Don't know when our papers will come back, but we are legal anyway, and in as nice a spot as we could imagine.  Two major currents - the Humbolt and La Nina - one cold and one warm, meet around these islands, and it is these that bring nutrients and the climate for such a wide range of wild life.  Of course over the centuries various visitors have depleted the wildlife - tortoises were considered an excellent fresh food store, and were kept in the holds of ships.  Also domestic animals were introduced which also caused chaos among the indigenous species.  At the moment the water in the anchorage is chilly, so early mornings and at sunset there's a misty layer over the water and a watery weedy smell, quite strange.
  The island is very quiet, a population of 2000 in this little settlement.  Just sand roads and hardly any traffic.  UNESCO and the USA have built jetties and a couple of board walks.  One through the mangroves to a swimming area, very popular with the local children, and the other through bush and wetland to a tortoise breeding station.  We went there briefly the first day, but it was hot and we were quite tired so plan to return another time.
 So far the best thing has just been the fact that we are surrounded by wildlife.  The blue-footed boobies, with sky blue feet, are on every rock.  Little Galapagos penguins mix with them and are always seen swimming in the water, and sea lions pop their heads up to see what we are up to.  When walking down the road or along the beach there are iguanas everywhere, and bright red crabs.
  We really miss the BBC short wave transmissions, now haven't a clue what is going on in the world.  We need to see if we can find  Voice of America or the Dutch world service in English.