Vanatu - first impressions from Tanna

Eight days of sailing, and 1100 miles of ocean covered, and we are in another world. The island of Tanna in the island group of Vanuatu to be exact. Villagers in dug-out canoes with lashed outriggers paddled over to say hello when we anchored, taking a little time off from their daily task of catching enough fish in the bay to feed their families. We are the only two boats in the anchorage - one of many in this part of the world that Captain Cook also visited.

The cruising guide says we should find the Yacht Club to organize immigration. All we can see from the water are a few thatched huts, so this sounds a very grand name. In fact it consists of a few very simple huts offering accommodation, and a large semi-open thatched building with a small kitchen where meals are provided for the guests. We are told that Stanley is our man, and we should ask for him in the village - "just walk down the main road". The grassy track leads us past huts with thatch roofs and plaited palm mats attached to the wooden structure for walls. Baby pigs, puppies, chickens and children all over the place and all having a great time together - the chickens happily pecking up the bugs exposed by the pigs' rootling. Everyone is so friendly, shaking hands and introducing themselves; Stanley it appears has gone fishing but will be back soon. There is a 'cultural centre' with imposing carved figures outside made of tree fern wood, now sprouting a bit of greenery as hair. Inside some old photos, and articles about the islands culture and history.

Superficially not much has changed since Cook's time, but real isolation is a thing of the past. New Zealand provided funds to sink 4 wells and install pumps; and a solar panel to provide power for a mobile phone aerial. There is one truck in the village, which means that they have access to the only town on the island, 25km over the mountain to the other side. Most children (but not all) have a primary education, but secondary school is much more expensive and very few families can afford the fees. 'Our' village offered two years of secondary education to children from all the surrounding area, they boarded at the school from Mon to Fri. But they were a very small group from comparatively wealthy families.

Arrangements were made for Stanley to accompany us, in the pick-up, to the town to clear immigration. And we were asked to be ready to go at 6.30am for the 2-hour trip. By about 8am the young driver had woken up and started the engine and we were wishing we had spent a bit more time having a good breakfast before setting out! Us two 'girls' were able to squeeze into the cab, but the men were in the back sitting on a narrow wooden bench - along with a variety of locals who hitched rides along the way. Several stops en route for fuel - a gallon and a half at a time by jug from a barrel by the side of the road. We had to draw money before we were able to do anything else. No ATM here, we could only change NZ and US banknotes. It took the rest of the morning to visit customs, immigration and quarantine; all in different buildings. Lunch was in the dockside restaurant, a thatched hut with two long tables and a curtain at one end behind which was the kitchen. Huge plates of fish, rice and yam were put in front of us, with a bottle of lurid red drink - definitely food for the body not the soul.

On the way back we were able to buy a bit of fruit from roadside stalls - strings (like onions) of freshly picked mandarins, huge pamplamousse like we used to get in French Polynesia, and some green leaves wrapped in a banana leaf. And so back to the boat where we could take down the yellow quarantine flag, and hoist the home-made Vanuatu courtesy flag complete with hand embroidered motif in the centre - plenty of time on an ocean crossing!