Of bars and tartan poles

Most of the sheltered anchorages along this part of the coast of New South Wales are up rivers, so they have entrance bars which may or may not be shallow but are nearly always rough. Also tidal flow has to be taken into account - sometimes as much as 6 knots. As I have mentioned before, we find the voluntary Marine Rescue service very helpful. They nearly always have their radio bases looking over the entrance and nearbye coast, so have a birds eye view of conditions over a bar, as well as local knowledge of the best side to favour.

After a couple of day hops we felt ready for a longer leg to get us further north, so as the wind was favourable had a two day and a night trip to the Clarence River not very far from the Queensland border. A change of climate here, fields of sugar cane, bananas, and houses raised on stilts so that the air can circulate underneath to help keep them cool. At this time of year it isn't too hot, in fact when sailing we are still in fleeces and socks; but at midday it is much more comfortable in the shade.

We crossed the Clarence River bar, just as it was getting dark, with no problems. Yesterday walked out along the 'taming' wall which is built of huge blocks of stone cut from a nearbye quarry, no concrete shapes here. The river was at full flow out, clashing with the incoming tide to make standing waves and plenty of turbulence. Dolphins were playing in the crashing water. On the other side of the wall human 'dolphins' in black wet suits were surfing in the long rollers coming into the beach. The fast flowing carries fish so there were pelicans and terns diving, and of course a row of hopeful weekend fishermen along the wall. Proof, if it was required, that timing of entrance and exit of these places is important.

Today an early start to catch the up-river flow, about nine miles to the town of Maclean. Careful navigation required to stay in the narrow deeper channel of the quite wide river. Various range lights help, two distant triangles which need to be lined up. We are always thankful for GPS and accurate electronic charts too. Maclean, as its name implies, was originally settled by Scotsmen, and plays up to its name by having various tartans painted around the power poles all through the centre of town. All different, and labelled. The banners of bits of Robbie Burns poetry were maybe going a bit too far! It's a charming compact little town though, with many well preserved old buildings, and a pleasant river-side walk. Also a friendly little library with free internet access, which always adds a star to a town's rating.