May 9, 2008

Nuku Hiva

We made a move at last yesterday. Geoff is back to normal thank goodness, and we are pretty sure that the problem arose from the meal we had in a home in Fatu Hiva as we met someone else who had the same symptoms. So we left at 3am yesterday morning for the 80 mile trip to Nuku Hiva, the northernmost island of the Marquesas group. Our position is now 08 54 S and 140 06 W.
Entering this deep narrow bay just before the sun set was a beautiful sight. Steep craggy rocks with caves, arches, and spires, all hazy in the setting sun. There is a small town here, and actually some traffic on the road. About 30 boats in the anchorage too. The perfume of frangipani trees drifted across after nightfall.
Today we managed to check in at last. A very friendly young gendarme who spoke very good English. One form to fill in, no cost, what a change from Ecuador and Panama. We have a 3-month permit which can be extended for another 3 months. Non-EU residents have to deposit a bond of US$ 3,000 or show a return air ticket, and then only get 30 days which can be extended to 3 months.
Unknown to us, today is Armistice Day, and a public holiday here, so except for a small grocery store everything is closed. So after a walk around the neighbourhood, with the fantastic perfume of frangipani and jasmine everywhere, and fruit just dripping off the trees, we have returned to the boat to smoke some of the yellow-fin and blue-fin tuna we caught yesterday. Before leaving here we have to stock up on fruits, as the next group of islands, the Tuomotos are coral atols, and grow very little apart from coconuts. The lushness of these volcanic islands is wonderful. The stores don't sell any fruit as all the locals have plenty of their own, so to get fruit you just have to ask people if you can have some from their gardens. Either to buy, or to trade, and often they just give it away.
There are some lovely walks to do here, and we look forward to exploring either from here or from the other anchorages around the island.

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