Hello from the Society Islands

When I last wrote we were awaiting our evening meal with the family on the island of Taou. It was quite a meal - bearing in mind that they can only get supplies when their large outboard motor is working and the sea is calm enough for the crossing in an open boat to Fakarava. We had pizza as an appetizer, made with coconut milk in the dough, and with some of our mahi mahi on it. Then bbq chicken, lamb (that we had supplied), 'poisson cru' which is raw fish soaked in coconut milk and lemon juice, fried fish, crab, crayfish, rice and coconut bread. Then a delicious light coconut tart for dessert. The crab was coconut crab, a large land crab that is nocturnal. We were telling her that we hadn't either caught or eaten one, so she got her husband to go and get one specially for us! We gave them some epoxy glue when we left, that sort of thing is very hard for them to acquire and extremely expensive.

Made the decision to put off our arrival in Tahiti for a bit longer, so made the 240 mile trip to the Society Islands, but are now in Moorea, only 20 miles or so from Tahiti. (Still French Polynesia). This island is the 'recreation island' for Tahiti with beaches, and good diving and snorkelling. It is also much quieter. There's a tarred road right round the island, but inland it is very steep and craggy and pretty inaccessible. There are two deep bays on the north side, Cooks Bay and Opunohu Bay, both of which were explored by Capt Cook and found to be excellent anchorages, sheltered, fresh water, fish and fruit available, and friendly natives. The views can't have changed very much since his day, but he wouldn't have heard cars passing or been able to buy fresh baguette daily!

The Society Islands are in between the Marquesas and Tuamotos in age. They have developed a barrier reef, but are still very mountainous. Reefs filter water so we have beautifully clear water, the bottom clearly visible at a depth of 10 meters. We were disappointed to see crown of thorns starfish on the coral - large brownish spiny starfish which crawl up onto the coral and devour the living polyps. The bikes have been out, and we've cycled quite a way round the coast road to a high lookout spot with stupendous views towards Tahiti and over the reef and pale blue lagoon area inside. Have been lucky with perfect weather, calm and sunny, for the last couple of days. Today looks much more ominous and we have the rain catcher in position but the rain only seems to be falling on the mountains.

We've met up with a few old friends here - a S. African couple on 'Sapristi' who we first met in Guadaloupe 2 yrs ago, then caught up with in the Galapagos. We arrived here after dark and they were kind enough to come out in their dinghy and guide us to an anchoring spot they had chosen for us during the day. Also a Swiss couple on 'Shiva' who we met in the boat yard in Chesapeake Bay last time we hauled out, and have been leapfrogging ever since.

We have managed to do a couple of things here that we thought we would have to do in Tahiti. G needed a 'proof of life' form signing for his pension, and we happened to cycle past a lawyer's office so enquired if they could do it. Were told that the mayor does that sort of thing. So cycled off to the Mairie, the mayor was found pottering around the garden outside, and he signed it, no cost, and the post office was next door so in about 10 minutes it was finished and (hopefully) on its way. Also, for a price, we can get wifi on the boat. Had hoped to skype as the connection is quite good, but it is only good now and then so the sat phone is more reliable and cheaper!