Hello from the Cook Islands

Arrived safely in Rarotonga, the main island of the Cook Islands at about 5.30pm yesterday, so still plenty of daylight. It was quite a fast journey, just as well, as the seas were large and uncomfortable. Not too bad when sitting still or lying down, but exhausting when walking around. The harbour, and only safe haven, is quite small here, and boats have to put an anchor out then reverse to the dock wall to tie up. Luckily we had plenty of help from other boats as there was a lot of wind and slop and it wasn't easy. (Old acquaintances from Galapagos among the boats here, and one little Aussie boat came in this morning having sailed all the way from Galapagos non-stop, 6 weeks at sea)

The surge in the harbour is pretty bad at the moment, so a lot of boats have left, but the wind should swing over the next 24hrs making it more comfortable. We are well away from the dock wall because of this, so have the dinghy tied to boat and wall and have to pull ourselves across - getting in and out of the dinghy in a 3ft swell isn't easy, and a flying leap landing in a heap is the safest if not the most elegant method.

It is very nice being back in an English-speaking environment, and rather strange hearing NZ-accented English being spoken by Polynesians. They are all very friendly and helpful, and pretty laid back. Written instructions about paying overtime rates if checking in between 4pm and 8am, having to have the boat sprayed for insects, and dumping all tropical fruit are just writing. The officials just aren't around for out of hours check-in, and they are not prepared to risk life and limb climbing onto rocking boats.

This is the main island of the Cook Island group, and Avatiu where we are is the largest town. However it is no more than a large village spread along about a mile of seashore, similar to towns in French Polynesia except that there's a fish and chip shop just down the road, and I had a hair cut for about seven pounds today (but you did a grand temporary job P).

Rarotonga is one of the newer volcanic islands of the Pacific, but a bit older than the Marquesas as it has a fringing reef but no lagoon between reef and land. 32 km round so we are going to try and cycle it, trying to remember to ride on the left. There are supposed to be some good walks up into the mountains, though we hear they are unsigned so hard to find. A familiar story eh P? And the properties we have wandered into to find someone to ask always seem to have a 'chien mechant' (not sure of the spelling of that one).

More news when we have explored a bit. G is busy mending a leaking salt water pump at the moment, always something to be done. But we have found the problem with the toilet pump P, it jammed up completely yesterday so had to be taken apart again, and a little metal washer thing had come adrift. All is now in good working order, sorry you had to struggle with it.