Bali Blog

Did you know that Bali was 'famous' for a type of coffee made by feeding civets coffee beans (ie the whole fruit), then collecting the beans which pass through their system, washing, roasting, grinding, and selling for exhorbitant sums. It's called Kopi Luwak. Evidently the acids in the animals stomach affect the composition of the bean giving it a special flavour. Now who thought that one up and did a good bit of marketing?

We have been anchored off a low-key resort area in north Bali for the last few days. Strange to be in an area with mainly European tourists, and a few Australians. There is a German baker, and the little grocery stores sell muesli and yoghurt. At dawn each morning the 'dawn patrol' sets off, a group of small local boats with a few tourists in fluorescent life jackets. They head out to find dolphins. When seen, they home in, only to find that the dolphins are far too intelligent to be herded like this, and they dive down out of sight. Then another fifteen minutes waiting for them to surface again. Hope the punters at least get a good sunrise for their money!

Yes, it's a tourist island. Every time we go ashore we are politely offered beads, carvings, fruit, clothing, transport, laundry done. We've had jerry cans of diesel fetched for us, laundry done, and have eaten in the local restaurants so feel we are supporting the local economy. We are not on holiday, and really don't want the goods on offer!

Yesterday we hired a car and driver to take us up into the cooler central mountains. We wanted to do some walking, and had the company of a Canadian whose wife has had to go back to Canada for a couple of weeks. He is a keen hiker. We were taken to a place where we could get a guide, and chose a 2 - 3 hour walk through the jungle and beside a couple of lakes. It was lovely, and saw no one else until we were nearly back to the road. The jungle had huge ancient fig trees, hanging moss, and creepers (one of which we were able to swing on Tarzan-like). A little 10-family village was tucked in among the trees. Self sufficient with cow, chickens, a bee hive, fruit trees and vegetable plot, and a lovely view from its hilltop position. Not far away was a Hindu temple in a clearing in the trees. Every day someone visits to sweep up leaves and leave offerings of rice and flowers. It was in the middle of nowhere, only footpath access. Another temple was beside one of the lakes, a quiet peaceful spot, again only accessible by footpath. From here steep steps, 350 at least, G counted, led back up to the road. A few muscles complaining today.

From there we drove to the main rice-growing area to see the bright green terraced paddy fields. Had lunch overlooking the fields - the men chose lemon chicken which turned out to be greasy deep-fried chicken skin. I did better with traditional mixed rice. Then to the coffee growing area (where we visited a place producing kopi luwak), to a market selling the locally grown mandarins and passion fruit. Also strawberries, but mainly for tourists we felt, the climate just isn't right.

I made the mistake of wanting to visit a famous temple, Puru Danau Bratan which is situated on a lake with mountains all around. A beautiful setting, and the temple has multi-storied thatched roofs and is set in lovely gardens. But it was swarming with tourists - some dressed in short shorts and sleeveless t-shirts, in spite of notices outside. A dawn visit would be necessary to appreciate it we felt.

So that has been 'our Bali'. Tomorrow we leave for Kalimantan, the southern part of Borneo. We will leave early and hope to get to an island where we could anchor for the night, but if we don't make it in time will just keep going, in which case we will be two nights out.