passage to borneo

The passage to the island of Kalimantan (the Indonesian part of Borneo) took 2 nights.  It was a busy trip, no relaxing with a book.  For once we were able to sail all the way until we got into the shelter of the river Kumai.  Also we were catching fish - landed two mahi mahi, one of our favourite fish.  Had a large barracuda on the hook as well and it took ages to get it unhooked and back (we hope) to live longer.

There were a lot of ships and boats.  Ships over a certain size have to be equipped with AIS (automatic identification system).  We can receive the signals but don't transmit.  However on this trip huge tankers passed by and no signal was given out.  Others when called up couldn't speak English (the international language between ships), and some didn't answer even when called by name.  This all meant that we had to be super vigilant, and had to take avoiding action, probably unnecessarily, as we were unable to communicate.

Some fishing boats were very inquisitive, coming very close and even cutting across our bows.  Friend or foe?  It was a bit worrying, though all seemed to be friendly and waved as they passed only metres away.

As we approached Kalimantan, in the night, the sky was lit up with a blaze of lights from a large fleet of shrimp or squid boats.  They attract their catch with lights strong enough to floodlight a football field.  We just didn't know how we would get through them, and with those lights they would certainly not see us.  However radar showed that they were in two groups with a clear 'road' through the middle.  It actually wasn't a problem at all.  They have huge outriggers with nets on both sides, and very noisy gear to raise and lower them.  Lights and noise were quite something.

We had to sail about 20 miles up the Kumai river.  It is mostly wide with many shallow areas so it is essential to be armed with waypoints.  Quite a lot of barges being towed, and palm oil is big business in Kalimantan (to the huge detriment of the jungle) so many tankers too.   Anchored off Kumai town with a couple of other boats.  Their owners were away on river trips, so only boat boys aboard looking after them.  We phoned our contact to arrange a trip, and to our surprise were able to go the next day, it is low season at the moment, and a great advantage being ahead of most of the rally boats.  He sent someone over to collect copies of passport, visa, boat papers etc. (all this paper must be filed somewhere never to be seen again) and payment.  All arranged for 7.30am next day.

The town looked unusual as we approached, several tall ugly grey concrete buildings.  They looked like blocks of flats with slit windows and no decoration at all.  None of the towns we have seen in Indonesia have high rise buildings, and this isn't a large place.  During the evening we could also hear the tweeting of lots of birds, and it seemed to be coming from the town with not a tree in sight and not from the wooded banks of the other side of the river where we were anchored.  Eventually we found out.  They are nesting buildings for cave swifts who make nests from strands of saliva - yes, you've maybe guessed, for birds nest soup.  So these are huge 'dove cots'.   The male birds make the nests from interwoven strands of saliva which are stuck to the walls.  Of caves in nature, and now on concrete walls.  All exported to China, and some to the Chinese communities in the USA. A kilo of nest brings in something like US$2,000 so it is big business.